Always wished there was a SAE equivalent for the 10mm.

 

Me too, but you can always file a 3/8 wrench little… socket, not so much 😂
Charlie

 

8MM....5/16"

 

Thanks, @RACNRAY I forgot about the typical bleeder size!
Charlie

 

FFS people. If you're going to be working on your own bikes, buy the proper good quality tools. It costs way less to do so than the frustration of fucked up fasteners and busted knuckles. It amazes me how many people will throw down big money for something they desire and then skimp on maintaining it.

 

+1
Buy a set of Metrics!
(pssst … it’s the world’s standard)

 

Some may not realize this but cheaper Chinese made junk or other junk brand tools are not accurate a lot of times. I have a Mitutoyo digital caliper that is certified and if you go from some Harbor Freight junk to say an US made open end you can have a decent amount of additional slop in the junk brand. I even purchased a set of Neiko crows feet and they didn't even have the ball catches for the driver which made them useless to me besides being way off in measurement. I immediately sent back! NOTHING beats an accurate correct tool for the job! Wrong tool means damages, stripping, over/under torquing, etc. Our bikes from what I have seen thus far are all metric as most nuts and bolts are made overseas nowadays. Use the correct sizes or proceed at your own risk!

 

Not to mention Frank White the fact that Chicom crap can shatter and blind ya. Pretty much all my tools are Snap On (CDN and US manufactured), and pre chicom Craftsman, although I have given my son most of them. All my wood working stuff is Estwing. I wear New Balance sneakers made right here in Skowhegan, Maine and Diamond Gussett Jeans and Thouroughgood and Danner and Red Wing boots all US. When is the last time you heard of anything good from China? Covid, Tic Tok, flying catfish, Ash Bore, stink bugs, hell you walk into Harbor Freight you get a headache from the Chi Com paint. I really try hard not to put money in their pockets although its pretty much unavoidable in certain cases.

 

27MM - 1 1/16 SAE

Had to go this route for chief axle nut

 

Why?

 

Hopefully you will not need British Whitworth size wrenches

 

I have a set of Whitworth also, as I started riding a Norton Atlas 750, and now own an Iron Barrel Royal Enfield 500 Bullet.
Charlie

 

I think the spirit of the thread has gone the way of the dreaded “oil thread”. I don’t think anyone is suggesting doing all their work on their bike with only an SAE tool set (what is a tool set anyway I’ve built my tool chest over 25years idk that any “set” would do everything I need it to). Of course metrics are proper for our machines but I believe the spirit of the original post was to help in a pinch not to say you can do everything w SAE.

 

I will take the blame! haha

 

“In a pinch” wedge the blade of a screwdriver between the bolt and an oversized box wrench.
then go buy a new bolt, and a set of metrics.

 

 

True Story
First day of Grade 9 shop class, Instructor holds one of these up and says “What is this.” Some kid pipes up “a crescent wrench” all proud that he knew the answer. “Nope” says the Instructor “it’s a piece of crap” and whips it across the room into the trash bin. “Don’t ever use one of these on a car.”
I’ve tried never to use one ever since. Only thing worse is a pair of vise grips.

 

Anything will get it done, but it is the stupid way. If they put your bike together with the wrong tools and just "made it happen" with rigged up wrenches and such. Or at the dealer they used "goodntight" methods etc. I am sure you would likely Not accept it. If we can spend $14-30k on a bike. we should buy the right tools if we are going to service it ourselves. Buy the right tools or bring to a proper mechanic!

 

I thank you all for giving your opinions on different tools. However, this thread is NOT about which brand of tool or even whether to purchase Metric or SAE tools. It is SIMPLY a cross reference from Metric to SAE and vice versa. I thank all of you who recognized this and stayed in the Spirit of the post. And yes, I own BOTH SAE and Metric tools. Sometimes I can’t find the one I need.
‘Charlie

 

As the saying goes...No good deed goes unpunished.

I have sets of both SAE and metric wrenches... along with different size Vicegrips. Oh, and pipe wrenches if get in a pinch

 

Of course I'll try to use the right tool for the fastener, but a list? Who here is going to stop and go look at a list, instead of just eyeballing the fastener and trying the wrenches that you have available to see which one possibly fits?

 

With experience one can judge the fastener size relatively easy. It then comes to finding the proper wrench. A list helps those with little experience, find a wrench that will work. If you have to look at this list then that is good. After a while, these sizes will become easy to reference by memory. As for trying wrenches, a 14mm may fit on a 13mm bolt,( this example was not given to encourage the use of a 14mm on a 13mm bolt or nut, but to show that this has been done improperly before) but will round the corners. I’m not OCD, so my wrenches tend to be in several areas of my garage and workshop, necessitating looking for the size I need. Many times, they vanish into thin air due to my lack of due diligence in putting them back in the toolbox or on the pegs above the workbench.
Charlie

 

Before my bike arrived I tried to compile a list of every size I needed and tools I didn't own I wanted. I am still buying tools here and there to build my collection. Buying American, Japanese, or Swiss made gets expensive but worth it. I would never lose, misplace, or not put my tools back because they were a fortune. Buy once cry once. Have nice things, keep things nice. I know I take care of my things because I worked hard to get them all. When I need them they are there! As they say a messy (Shop, House, Room, Car), equals a messy life, or mind! I learned in boot camp to be "Squared away" and to keep my sh!t tight! Everything I do I try and take pride in it and do it right!

 

I have a decent set of tools accumulated now, but am guilty of buying Harbor Freight if it's a tool im not going to use often. But I learned my lesson with cheap sockets. I only buy Craftsman when I need a size not in my set.

 

Next time list the parameters of your wishes. No offense intended as to your initial post. As I see your tenure here is somewhat limited, you may not be aware we tend to wander here. Not to violate any protocol real or imagined, just how we roll. So if you make a post and have some rules attached on which way you wish the conversation to move in, please let us know beforehand, then you will not have to admonish us later for not being aware of your parameters. Again, sorry for my transgression against your sizing chart topic.

 

This is for all of us that moved off topic!

 

Please wear safety glasses guys, that stuff I said early about chi com stuff breaking comes from a buddy of mine losing eyesight in one eye from a Harbor Freight hammer.

 

I'm a traveling road pipe fitter millwright.
One tip for keeping tools,
Soak in muriatic acid,that removes the chrome and allows the wrench to rust.
Folks won't walk off with a rusty wrench,they actually walk up and say "this yours"
You Will always have the size you need.

 

I keep a full set of each (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive) in both metric and SAE, wrenches and sockets. Whenever I find something missing (like as long 1/4" extension or a universal or something), I take that opportunity to buy it for next time.

Preferred brands are Snap-On, Craftsman, anybody else?

I know the Craftsman hand tools carry a lifetime guarantee. Once I was hammering with a sledge on a 1/2" ratchet to get a wheel off and blew out the drive. I brought it into Sears with all the dents from hammering clearly viable on the handle, and they handed me a brand new drive... no questions asked! Craftsman is not as nice (or expensive) as Snap-On, but it plays a good second fiddle.

 

Once I was hammering with a sledge on a 1/2" ratchet to get a wheel off and blew out the drive. I brought it into Sears with all the dents from hammering clearly viable on the handle, and they handed me a brand new drive... no questions asked!

Egads, man, at least use a breaker bar, if not an actual slug wrench.

 

Thanks to the OP. I created a list from this post and will print it for my travel tool roll. Useful info when you're in a jam on the road or trail. Thank you!

 

You know we can just say..."Hey (Siri, Google, Alexa) what is 1/2" to mm?" or there is google directly and make a bookmark! Once again I still see no need for it as I use the correct tool size and would never use a SAE on a Metric. But you all can feel free to service your own bikes however you want, just don't touch mine haha.

 

Try that 23 miles into a single track in Evart Michigan. Having cheats, duct tape zip ties and any other backwoods tech is much appreciated.

 

 

How did I miss that dead horse that Frank keeps beating on…?

 

Just putting this out there for all the ‘tool aficionados’


TOOLS EXPLAINED

DRILL PRESS :
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL :
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t'

ANGLE GRINDER :
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS :
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER :
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW :
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

MOLE-GRIPS : Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH :
Used almost entirely for setting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..

TABLE SAW :
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK :
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW :
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST :
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER :
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER :
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR :
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50p part.

HOSE CUTTER :
A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER :
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

STANLEY KNIFE :
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

ADJUSTABLE SPANNER:
aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted knuckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity.

BASTARD TOOL :
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Bastard' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

 

Just putting this out there for all the ‘tool aficionados’


TOOLS EXPLAINED

DRILL PRESS :
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL :
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t'

ANGLE GRINDER :
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS :
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER :
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW :
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

MOLE-GRIPS : Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH :
Used almost entirely for setting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..

TABLE SAW :
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK :
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW :
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST :
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER :
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER :
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR :
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50p part.

HOSE CUTTER :
A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER :
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

STANLEY KNIFE :
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

ADJUSTABLE SPANNER:
aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted knuckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity.

BASTARD TOOL :
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Bastard' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Have you bought your fishing license yet? 😂
Charlie

 

Thank you

 

That's why they skip 16mm and 18mm in wrench/socket sets. I agree that you should have both of all sizes. After I bought a good set of Craftsman, you only need to add a couple sizes as you need them and they only cost about $5.

 

My millennial neighbor was throwing out an old fridge and I told him you are supposed to take the doors off so a kid can't get trapped when it's at the curb. He said he would but he didn't have that "fancy screwdriver shape" to take the fastener out. I was thinking it was a torque head or Allen head bolt or something. I was like let me see. It was just a hex bolt. He didn't know what a socket set was. 🤣

My son's friend in college didn't know either, but he's from Russia.

Another of my son's college roommates couldn't figure out how to connect the shop-vac extension tubes together. These guys go to top ranked University of Michigan too.

We are fucked when we have to rely on this next generation!