[jtleafs33]

My Challenger clutch slips under heavy load at times. I'd like to put the Barnett clutch kit with the extra plate and upgraded springs in.

My question is, can I do this without actually removing the clutch basket from the bike? The service manual lists a "staking nut" (#4 in diagram below from the Challenger manual) which is torqued to 125 lb-ft which must be removed to fully take the clutch basket out, and of course this requires a special procedure for locking the crankshaft.

On the TS111 it looks like a very simple job (see this post) to change the friction plates and springs without major disassembly. Looks like you can take the pressure plate off without touching this "staking nut". Is the PowerPlus the same way?

 

[cleve]

Just double check the tension of the clutch cable. I had a similar problem and found the cable wasn't letting the clutch disengage completely. I adjusted the cable to spec and no problem since.

 

[jtleafs33]

Yeah, I've adjusted it quite a few times. I'm at 7500 miles now and I accept the fact that I might have caused accelerated wear getting used to the feel of the new bike, so if I can replace the plates myself I'm okay with just doing that.

 

[Cheezz]

Looks like you're gonna have to take off that nut. The basket #17 looks to engage the crank gear and the hub #11 looks to be splined to the transmission input shaft.

 

[Dave H]

You should only need to adjust it once correctly. It must have free play at rest, no exceptions.

 

[BaggerJay]

My buddy had his replaced under warranty. His cable was frayed and not releasing completely. It was only a few months old at the time. Another buddy just said his is slipping after our ride on Saturday. He's contacting the dealer about warranty. If mine starts to slip I think I'll get a Barnett.

 

[RobJersey]

I noticed the slip a couple times now when getting on it hard. Guess I’ll have to make sure they look at it when it goes in for 500mile service.

 

[RobJersey]

Just to update, my clutch cable play was too tight. Adjusted and it’s all fixed.

 

[Smoothbassman]

I just got my bike serviced and after that my clutch started slipping about 4 weeks after that service. After adjusting freeplay, it was still slipping. They just pulled the clutch apart and found it was burnt up. Only 13K miles. I'm upset that the bike got serviced, and I found that there was no free play in the clutch lever at all the entire time I have been riding the bike. It wasn't set up properly and now I have to pay the price to get it fixed as Indian would not warranty it as it came setup that way from the factory.

 

[BaggerJay]

I just got my bike serviced and after that my clutch started slipping about 4 weeks after that service. After adjusting freeplay, it was still slipping. They just pulled the clutch apart and found it was burnt up. Only 13K miles. I'm upset that the bike got serviced, and I found that there was no free play in the clutch lever at all the entire time I have been riding the bike. It wasn't set up properly and now I have to pay the price to get it fixed as Indian would not warranty it as it came setup that way from the factory.

Ask them to check the cable for fraying. I've heard of others beside my friend that had that issue.

 

[TechRider]

That sucks Smoothbassman!

 

[Dave H]

Anyone riding a motorcycle ought to know what an out of adjustment clutch cable looks like.

 

[RAIN DANCER]

My Challenger clutch slips under heavy load at times. I'd like to put the Barnett clutch kit with the extra plate and upgraded springs in.

My question is, can I do this without actually removing the clutch basket from the bike? The service manual lists a "staking nut" (#4 in diagram below from the Challenger manual) which is torqued to 125 lb-ft which must be removed to fully take the clutch basket out, and of course this requires a special procedure for locking the crankshaft.

On the TS111 it looks like a very simple job (see this post) to change the friction plates and springs without major disassembly. Looks like you can take the pressure plate off without touching this "staking nut". Is the PowerPlus the same way?

View attachment 631955

I purchased the Standard Package Barnett Clutch Plates and Springs.
along with new gasket just to have on hand.

There is NO NEED to pull the Clutch Basket.

Drain Oil and Soak New Friction Plates in Oil.

Remove the 5 Bolts, Remove and Install NEW Plates along with NEW Springs.

Install 5 Bolts (torque)

Install Cover etc...... refill with Fresh Oil.

I too used the information you posted on your question. Quite Simple Looking Procedure.

 

[Dave H]

Regardless of the bike and clutch plates you use, if you put it back together with the cable too tight the new clutch will fail also.

 

[Smoothbassman]

Yeah, That's what I think did it, The dealer is going to eat the labor to install the new clutch since they are the only ones that have touched the bike, but I have to buy the parts. Just ordered the Barnett next day air shipment right to the shop so I can get rolling again by the weekend.

 

[BaggerJay]

Yeah, That's what I think did it, The dealer is going to eat the labor to install the new clutch since they are the only ones that have touched the bike, but I have to buy the parts. Just ordered the Barnett next day air shipment right to the shop so I can get rolling again by the weekend.

Let us know how you like the Barnett, it will be interesting to hear if there is any noticeable difference.

 

[Smoothbassman]

Got the clutch installed and it's running great. I can tell no difference between the OEM and this Barnett clutch. I didn't get the version with the extra plates.

 

[Brimstone]

It kind of sucks that the Challenger clutch has had such a wide range of issues, and a wide range of fixes depending on the dealership. Mine is at the dealership now because it was slipping after about an hour of riding Saturday. Luckily my buddy had a 12 mm wrench (note to everyone: PUT A 12MM WRENCH IN YOUR SADDLEBAG), and we were able to adjust it enough so I could get it back home. I called my dealership and they got me right in. The service manager told me “yours isn’t the only one”. He rode it and said it didn’t feel right, did a little more clutch cable adjustment, and ordered a ratchet shifter in case it starts slipping again, so that’s either what Indian is suggesting or something that’s fixed the problem there before. So far everything is covered under warranty, other than my downtime.

 

[Baron58]

95% of clutch issues can be traced back to improper adjustment. Its best to adjust the clutch while the engine is hot. Why, because the clutch plates will be compressed more pulling more tension.


Since the clutch Freeplay is a fairly small range. If its adjusted cold. And then the bike warms up to operating temp sometimes the free play will be taken all the way up as the clutch plates get tighter.

Also, another possible issue is that with the slipper clutch and RPM increases, the clutch plates are forced tighter, if the Freeplay isn't there, they move tighter and slip wearing out he clutch.

The first 500-1000 miles the clutch may have to be initially adjusted several times, due to cable and the clutch plates breaking in.