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Does anyone know if I can reduce the tension on the clutch lever on my 2016 Indian scout.. after a couple of hours of riding my hand is extremely sore and I’m finding it very difficult to pull the lever. it’s turning me off going out in long journeys.
 

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An aftermarket Barnett clutch cable should reduce the pull tension a bit.
 

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Paula try lubricating the cable. There was some discussion here about whether or not to lubricate a cable on the Scout. I lubricate my cable regularly. Try moving your hand closer to the rear of the lever for more leverage.
 

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An aftermarket Barnett clutch cable should reduce the pull tension a bit.
Everyone reports this to be true. Because of this (and my dear wife's small hands), I had one installed for her Saturday. So far she thinks it is not easier to pull. Now, we rode over to the dealer with the cable bungeed to my rack. It is possible that I coiled it a little too tight? If so I think it will loosen up over time.

OTOH, when we got home I tried mine (stock) then hers (Barnett) on our parked bikes Scouts, and it felt to me that the Barnett was easier. Others on the forum have estimated something like 15% less effort to pull a Barnett. So the consensus appears to be it helps but is not a wildly large difference.

I'm still wondering if there is (or will be) an after market lever solution that addresses this issue better, particular for the smaller handers.
 

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Everyone reports this to be true. Because of this (and my dear wife's small hands), I had one installed for her Saturday. So far she thinks it is not easier to pull. Now, we rode over to the dealer with the cable bungeed to my rack. It is possible that I coiled it a little too tight? If so I think it will loosen up over time.

OTOH, when we got home I tried mine (stock) then hers (Barnett) on our parked bikes Scouts, and it felt to me that the Barnett was easier. Others on the forum have estimated something like 15% less effort to pull a Barnett. So the consensus appears to be it helps but is not a wildly large difference.

I'm still wondering if there is (or will be) an after market lever solution that addresses this issue better, particular for the smaller handers.
Personally, I don't feel much of a difference myself, maybe 15%, hard to estimate that sort of thing. But as you said, a lot of people claim that it noticeably reduced pull tension for them so I think it's fair to recommend it, it's a very high quality cable regardless.

Anyway, on the topic of lubing cables, not to dig up up another oil debate, but just to be clear, the reason the manual recommends that you do not lubricate the factory clutch cable is because it is lined with an inner teflon sleeve (most modern clutch cables are) and many off-the-shelf lubricants will gradually dissolve that teflon coating, creating a thick gunk of teflon, dirt, and oil inside the cable, eventually leading to an even more pull tension. It does work as temporary relief but at the same time reduces the life of the cable. If it's on the way out anyway, go ahead, but it'd be wise to get another replacement cable ordered up in the process.
 

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Even if you do lubricate the OEM cable..... WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, DO NOT use WD-40, use some Teflon spray!
That is what the inside of the cable is so it should make a better lubricant on the cable.
 

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Give it some time. I complained about it at first too. I'm not sure if my hand just got stronger, or if it just got easier to pull but it does get better.
 

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I'm not sure if this mod is going to help or not, but my wife has the same complaint about the clutch pull effort...even after using the Barnett cable for the last year or so. She has a 2016 Scout Sixty and it uses the same clutch pack as the higher powered Scout. She is about to give up on the Scout Sixty if something can't be done. So, instead of getting rid of her bike, I am working with Barnett to test out a slightly "lighter" set of clutch springs to see if they will provide the needed reduction in effort at the lever and still maintain adequate clutch performance. I will give it a try as soon as I receive the springs and clutch cover gasket.
 

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My left hand used to cramp a lot when I first bought my Scout. One of our group riders suggested I get a tennis ball to squeeze while relaxing. It took about a week before it started to work. I still squeeze the ball, with both hands at night. Any kids squeeze toy would work too.
 

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You might look into a product called Rekluse Auto Clutch for the Scout.

RADIUSX CLUTCH (INDIAN) | Rekluse

I have a Chieftain, but I sure wish they made this product for my bike...
 

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First off - go back to the dealer and have them adjust that cable. I have small hands as well, and I am looking for an after market clutch handle that is "bent" closer to the grip so I can reach it easier. Has anyone found or tried to modify their handle? I'm sure there is plenty of room for the clutch to still engage - I don't need much to be able to reach with more fingers. For the time being, I have to tape by left thumb knuckle because I was bruising the bone. It really helps.
 

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I'm not sure if this mod is going to help or not, but my wife has the same complaint about the clutch pull effort...even after using the Barnett cable for the last year or so. She has a 2016 Scout Sixty and it uses the same clutch pack as the higher powered Scout. She is about to give up on the Scout Sixty if something can't be done. So, instead of getting rid of her bike, I am working with Barnett to test out a slightly "lighter" set of clutch springs to see if they will provide the needed reduction in effort at the lever and still maintain adequate clutch performance. I will give it a try as soon as I receive the springs and clutch cover gasket.
I am very interested in your post about the lighter set of clutch springs. I am struggling with the clutch pull on my 2016 Scout as well. If changing the clutch springs helps, I will definitely do that. Please keep us posted!
 

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I am very interested in your post about the lighter set of clutch springs. I am struggling with the clutch pull on my 2016 Scout as well. If changing the clutch springs helps, I will definitely do that. Please keep us posted!
I installed the new springs over the weekend and hate to report that the lighter springs had no perceptible difference in clutch pull. The springs needed to be a bit lighter, but there are no readily available lighter "stock" springs available that will fit...so, six custom springs would have to be spec'd and fabricated. We decided not to do that even assuming Barnett offered.

As a result and after fighting this issue for 2 years, my wife is selling her Scout and started shopping for a replacement.
 

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I installed the new springs over the weekend and hate to report that the lighter springs had no perceptible difference in clutch pull. The springs needed to be a bit lighter, but there are no readily available lighter "stock" springs available that will fit...so, six custom springs would have to be spec'd and fabricated. We decided not to do that even assuming Barnett offered.

As a result and after fighting this issue for 2 years, my wife is selling her Scout and started shopping for a replacement.
Sorry to hear she's giving up on the bike. I had the same problem, and eventually was able to find a comfortable position gripping it further in. I occasionally still need to put it in neutral and give my hand a rest if I'm in stop and go traffic, but it's not nearly as bad as when I first started. Building up hand strength and finding the sweet spot on the lever seem to be the key.
 

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Does no one make adjustable levers for the Scout that allow you to move the lever closer??
 

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Funny, but in all seriousness it's a control and safety issue. It's common sense for a rider to switch to a bike they are comfortable controlling.

The break lever isn't that stiff. The clutch lever shouldn't be either.
 

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Funny, but in all seriousness it's a control and safety issue. It's common sense for a rider to switch to a bike they are comfortable controlling.

The break lever isn't that stiff. The clutch lever shouldn't be either.
Apples and oranges comparison based on the mechanics. BTW, I found the HD hydraulic clutch worse than the cable clutches and with less control feel.
 

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Apples and oranges comparison based on the mechanics. BTW, I found the HD hydraulic clutch worse than the cable clutches and with less control feel.
Yes, the mechanics are different, but consider your car (if you have a manual transmission). Do you find the clutch that much more difficult to operate than the brake? I don't.

Also, consider that most people are right handed. That means they're operating the clutch with their non-dominant hand which for most will be a bit weaker. Add an extra-stiff clutch lever and, as I said, it becomes a control and safety issue.
 

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Yes, the mechanics are different, but consider your car (if you have a manual transmission). Do you find the clutch that much more difficult to operate than the brake? I don't.

Also, consider that most people are right handed. That means they're operating the clutch with their non-dominant hand which for most will be a bit weaker. Add an extra-stiff clutch lever and, as I said, it becomes a control and safety issue.
Is the clutch hydraulic or mechanical? Make a huge difference. Heavy duty clutches 3000 lb. in our old hot rods required two feet. Brakes, not nearly the same. Mechanical parking brake maybe.
I'm a lefty.
 
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