[Gman1]

(I just posted this in the FB group)
Anyone having clutch hiccups with their Challenger?
I’ve seen several posts about bad cables, cable adjustment needing to be very exact (0.5-1.5mm freeplay,) clutch slipping & one guy reporting a “popped clutch plate” although I cannot find his post.
LISTEN UP INDIAN if you monitor this forum.

My issue:
...about 50% of time when slowing to an intersection & dropping from 2nd to N,, and then when stopped to 1st, -it clunks (sounds like it went into 1st) but stays in N.
Clutch out confirms N.
Clutch in, tap down... clunk,, display shows 1, then a sec later changes to N. 3rd try seems to stick; but occasionally I have to HOLD shifter down in 1st to get going & then all is normal. Kinda frustrating.

Others & I have installed the $57 Barnett cable (very smooth, sleeve is 1mm thicker than oem, but actual cable is same 2.3mm thickness. We know the Barnett cable is USA steel; the Indian cable?) Our cable freeplay is correct per manual.

One rider reported his issue & dealer told him it WASN’T warranty covered cuz the clutch is a “wear or maintenance” item. I bet we all will yell BULLSHIT to that right?
INDIAN/POLARIS, care to speak-up?

INDIAN... do you offer a heavy-duty clutch kit for this bike? ...you better get one ready, and respond proactively towards us please.

Barnett is making one (see image of my email comm with them) -however we should NOT need to go aftermarket for another clutch able to handle this new bike/engine.
IF more riders experience clutch issues as the miles rack up & open service cases, AND Indian doesn’t have a stronger clutch, I HOPE that Indian will do the right thing and put a Barnett clutch kit in the bike under warranty or reimburse us for it.

 

[sandspur_]

Do you think the "ramps" on the slipper basket could be causing the problem?

 

[BaggerJay]

Mike from Holeshot Indian posted on the facebook page they have replaced a couple complete assemblies under warranty. He stated the dealership can replace it under warranty if they put in a special claim with Polaris. If you are experiencing an issue don't take no for an answer from your dealership. So far, I have had no issues with my clutch.

 

[Baron58]

There was a post on Facebook about this. Customer had to go to Polaris directly, and they ended up covering it under warranty.

A slipper clutch is designed to tighten during acceleration and "slip" during deceleration when down shifting. Kind a strange for a bike that Polaris has been test riding for over 2 years has these issues. But these issues look to me more manufacturing issues than design issues.

 

[TNINJUN]

Stock clutch working great so far. 2k hard ridden miles. We shall see.

 

[jhonathank]

My clutch has barked a few times. I'm assuming(haven't dug into the engine on this bike yet) that the clutches are wet clutches? Mine felt like my old sport bike clutches when the plates would get dry and grabby... Wonder if it's a clutch drying out issue?

 

[Max Kool]

A clutch that fails after 2500 miles is a "maintenance issue"....

They gotta be kidding

 

[Baron58]

On one of the Facebook challenger sites one of the Dealers said they have replaced several bad clutches under warranty.

 

[Gi Jew 555]

Hello, all I’m not trying to jack any thread and please forgive me if posting in the wrong spot. Just joined the forum today and outside the introduction; this posting is my first post . If I’m going about this wrongly please let me know . Don’t know what you don’t know. So here we go, I have a 2017 Chief Darkhorse , clutch completely went out started to slip really bad not more then 10 miles down the road it completely went out. Ordered Barnet clutch pack to replace . After taking it apart issue is the friction pads completely grenaded. I mean the teeth are gone nothing left of the first plate and a couple welded themselves together. Aluminum all in the bottom of the case and am worried about it getting in and doing further damage . It’s aluminum so can’t use a magnet to pull chunks out. Going to go the flush route and just replace filter ever time. Flush and keep flushing . However, can any one chime in and say if they have seen it happen , advice on should I pull it apart and split it open to see if any shavings are in there. Bike has less than 5k miles yes I ride hard but have owned several bikes and nothing like this has happened . Again any knowledge in this would be much appreciated.

 

[Baron58]

Hello, all I’m not trying to jack any thread and please forgive me if posting in the wrong spot. Just joined the forum today and outside the introduction; this posting is my first post . If I’m going about this wrongly please let me know . Don’t know what you don’t know. So here we go, I have a 2017 Chief Darkhorse , clutch completely went out started to slip really bad not more then 10 miles down the road it completely went out. Ordered Barnet clutch pack to replace . After taking it apart issue is the friction pads completely grenaded. I mean the teeth are gone nothing left of the first plate and a couple welded themselves together. Aluminum all in the bottom of the case and am worried about it getting in and doing further damage . It’s aluminum so can’t use a magnet to pull chunks out. Going to go the flush route and just replace filter ever time. Flush and keep flushing . However, can any one chime in and say if they have seen it happen , advice on should I pull it apart and split it open to see if any shavings are in there. Bike has less than 5k miles yes I ride hard but have owned several bikes and nothing like this has happened . Again any knowledge in this would be much appreciated. View attachment 598496

Looks like that clutch had been slipping for a long time. One thing to consider, as the clutch wears it actually starts to pull the clutch cable tighter as the clutch pack starts to compress due to the wear and tear of the friction pads. This in itself will cause the clutch to slip because as it wears the cable gets tight to the point that the spring can longer make the pack tight. Most people have clutch slippage with the BBK kits and HP upgrades. On stock bikes usually cable adjustments. But if you are dumping the clutch hard and doing hard burnouts or attempted wheelies..... I could see that happening.

 

[Gi Jew 555]

Thank you so much for the reply , the cable seemed normal. I don’t try and do wheelies but won’t lie I have been guilty of an occasional burnout and probably slamming the clutch /shifting hard at times . Everything makes since the way you explained it and thank you. Clutch went quick though not much of a slippage just completely stoped shifting . As far as aluminum in the bottom do you think it contaminated or got in to anything more?

This being a worry of causing further damage to something more. I had a little aluminum dust shavings in the oil. However, I have seen that is quite normal. I don’t see any chunks in the oil just everything spread through the bottom of the pan. Looks like shrapnel’s everywhere . Any suggestion on further damage with just a flush or should I pull it apart and split it open? Thank you again for your knowledge and time.

 

[Gi Jew 555]

Looks like that clutch had been slipping for a long time. One thing to consider, as the clutch wears it actually starts to pull the clutch cable tighter as the clutch pack starts to compress due to the wear and tear of the friction pads. This in itself will cause the clutch to slip because as it wears the cable gets tight to the point that the spring can longer make the pack tight. Most people have clutch slippage with the BBK kits and HP upgrades. On stock bikes usually cable adjustments. But if you are dumping the clutch hard and doing hard burnouts or attempted wheelies..... I could see that happening.

Looks like that clutch had been slipping for a long time. One thing to consider, as the clutch wears it actually starts to pull the clutch cable tighter as the clutch pack starts to compress due to the wear and tear of the friction pads. This in itself will cause the clutch to slip because as it wears the cable gets tight to the point that the spring can longer make the pack tight. Most people have clutch slippage with the BBK kits and HP upgrades. On stock bikes usually cable adjustments. But if you are dumping the clutch hard and doing hard burnouts or attempted wheelies..... I could see that happening.

Thank you so much for the reply , the cable seemed normal. I don’t try and do wheelies but won’t lie I have been guilty of an occasional burnout and probably slamming the clutch /shifting hard at times . Everything makes since the way you explained it and thank you. Clutch went quick though not much of a slippage just completely stoped shifting . As far as aluminum in the bottom do you think it contaminated or got in to anything more?

This being a worry of causing further damage to something more. I had a little aluminum dust shavings in the oil. However, I have seen that is quite normal. I don’t see any chunks in the oil just everything spread through the bottom of the pan. Looks like shrapnel’s everywhere . Any suggestion on further damage with just a flush or should I pull it apart and split it open? Thank you again for your knowledge and time.

 

[Max Kool]

but won’t lie I have been guilty of an occasional burnout and probably slamming the clutch /shifting hard at times .

^^ this 😞

 

[Gi Jew 555]

^^ this 😞

Don’t think the clutch completely grenaded it’s self because an occasional burn out and me downshifting hard at certain times . However, I could be wrong. Owned quite a few bikes and ride the same just never toasted one like this, No BBK either ( 585 loyd cams exhaust pcv - tune and intake though.) So might be a issue. More worried about the shrapnel everywhere then anything . Figured I would get on and get on and ask questions as most people seem to be very helpful.
v/r
Rick

 

[Max Kool]

“Slamming” the clutch is bad for the plates teeth afaik. It’s like a shock for the material.

 

[BaggerJay]

What are you running for oil? Is it something with a friction modifier? You can't run just any synthetic oil, it's too slippery for clutch plates. That being said along with the clear over heating and slippage I wonder if it was improperly adjusted. Even being hard on it shouldn't have done that. Unless you are really slamming it often. As for the contamination I would run some cheap oil through it a few times and flush what you can into a clean container until you get it all out.
FYI you posted in the Challenger section.

 

[HyeHog]

I have noticed, at least with my Challenger that the clutch catches WAY too late in the process, which if left alone would cause premature wear. So I took to the dealer and they made a quick adjustment........which made it a little bit better and allowed the clutch to catch a little sooner.....but it still wasn't right. So I made my OWN adjustment at about 1250 miles and now the bike runs perfect in terms of clutch engagement. Not sure how many of these early bikes had mis-adjusted clutches.....but I know for a fact that one of the threads mentioned that a Challenger owner had to replace a clutch at 2500 miles on his own dime! Unless that owner was doing burnouts, wheelies and/or riding the clutch, no way should a properly adjusted clutch in normal riding conditions require replacement at 2500 miles. I hope the dealership and mothership stepped up here and got that guy a NEW clutch on the motherships dime!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[TechRider]

So I made my OWN adjustment at about 1250 miles and now the bike runs perfect in terms of clutch engagement.

Did you adjust the freeplay or something else?

 

[HyeHog]

Did you adjust the freeplay or something else?

Tech, just the freeplay....all external. I actually now have a couple 2MM of play in my clutch cable now.....which is what you want. Clutch now "grabs" where it is supposed to.

 

[Mrf13]

I did the same with my clutch. Where the clutch was engaging was at the end of the release. Made slow speed maneuvers difficult. Tried getting used to it for 7500 miles but no dice. Only motorcycle i have ever owned that didn’t have adjustable clutch lever.