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Upshifting at 2500 could be the problem. The engine is nearly lugging at 2000. You want to keep it over 3000 pretty much always, which means shifting around 3500 minimum.
I find myself shifting up when above 3000rpms by default, much higher when accelerating aggressively such as on short freeway ramps. This bike likes to rev - don't be shy.

Others make good suggestions here.

If the problem continues - check your clutch cable free play when the bike is warm. If the gap is growing too much, you may have a defective clutch cable. This happened to me: my clutch free play when cold was adjusted to spec. When warm, it grew to over 1/4 of an inch. Replaced the clutch cable, problem solved.
 

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I find myself shifting up when above 3000rpms by default, much higher when accelerating aggressively such as on short freeway ramps. This bike likes to rev - don't be shy.

Others make good suggestions here.

If the problem continues - check your clutch cable free play when the bike is warm. If the gap is growing too much, you may have a defective clutch cable. This happened to me: my clutch free play when cold was adjusted to spec. When warm, it grew to over 1/4 of an inch. Replaced the clutch cable, problem solved.
This is a good point. Switching to a Barnett made a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I find myself shifting up when above 3000rpms by default, much higher when accelerating aggressively such as on short freeway ramps. This bike likes to rev - don't be shy.

Others make good suggestions here.

If the problem continues - check your clutch cable free play when the bike is warm. If the gap is growing too much, you may have a defective clutch cable. This happened to me: my clutch free play when cold was adjusted to spec. When warm, it grew to over 1/4 of an inch. Replaced the clutch cable, problem solved.
I gave myself a limit of 6000RPM not to exceed while breaking in the engine, but I'm now shifting around 5000RPM in all gears to give the engine a workout.

I did notice that the clutch cable gap would grow when the bike warmed up. Up to 250 miles, I probably had to adjust it 5 times (I now carry a 10mm and 12mm wrench in my jacket lol). My last 2 adjustments were done while the bike was warm and 80 miles later, I haven't had to touch it again. Right now it's ever so slightly tight when cold, but I'm pretty sure it'll stretch out a tiny bit more in the next hundred miles.


Shift it like you mean it. Advice I was given by the guy who built my Remington 870 shotgun “rack it like you mean it”
Noted. Somehow the extractor broke on my 870 on factory loads so I sure hope my Indian is built a little more solid haha.
 

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Hello everyone,

I got my new 2021 Scout ABS on Friday and it's been an absolute joy breaking it in for 210 miles so far.

The only problem is that sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd, the clutch makes this gear grinding sound and bounces back into neutral. This can also occur when downshifting from 2nd to 1st. I adjusted the clutch cable freeplay to be credit card thin, but this hasn't solved the problem. What seems to reduce these occurrences is shifting swiftly and all the way with the foot, but when that fails, the clunkiness feels greater like I am trying to force these gears together and they're not having it.

I am following all the break-in recommendations except the recommended shift points. I rev higher than whatever results in the recommended 17MPH shift point. Last time this cluckiness happened, I was up-shifting at 2000-2500RPM.

I'm thinking this may be something that will break itself in as the gears mate together etc but I'd like to hear your thoughts. I'm a little concerned about damage to the transmission.

Thanks!
I find that they shift better when they warm up. I find that with my new Chief more than my Scout. Now that it's getting colder, the oil needs to warm up a little. 15W60 is thick oil.
 
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