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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone,

I got my new 2021 Scout ABS on Friday and it's been an absolute joy breaking it in for 210 miles so far.

The only problem is that sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd, the clutch makes this gear grinding sound and bounces back into neutral. This can also occur when downshifting from 2nd to 1st. I adjusted the clutch cable freeplay to be credit card thin, but this hasn't solved the problem. What seems to reduce these occurrences is shifting swiftly and all the way with the foot, but when that fails, the clunkiness feels greater like I am trying to force these gears together and they're not having it.

I am following all the break-in recommendations except the recommended shift points. I rev higher than whatever results in the recommended 17MPH shift point. Last time this cluckiness happened, I was up-shifting at 2000-2500RPM.

I'm thinking this may be something that will break itself in as the gears mate together etc but I'd like to hear your thoughts. I'm a little concerned about damage to the transmission.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I will definitely make a note of it when dropping off the bike for its first service.

However I was wondering. I come from a Honda CBR 600RR with a red-line at like 17,000RPM which is a very wide range. How my riding style, muscle memory and acceleration expectations translate into this bike is that I have a natural tendency to shift at 4,000RPM. Is there anything wrong with that? In my mind, it's almost 2,000RPM short of peak torque RPM, and only halfway to the red-line. I can't imagine that this would be harmful, but maybe I'm wrong.

PS: I do not get anywhere near WOT (wide open throttle), maybe 3/4. I'm just trying to give this engine a good break-in within the limitations of the manual.
 

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Hello everyone,

I got my new 2021 Scout ABS on Friday and it's been an absolute joy breaking it in for 210 miles so far.

The only problem is that sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd, the clutch makes this gear grinding sound and bounces back into neutral. This can also occur when downshifting from 2nd to 1st. I adjusted the clutch cable freeplay to be credit card thin, but this hasn't solved the problem. What seems to reduce these occurrences is shifting swiftly and all the way with the foot, but when that fails, the clunkiness feels greater like I am trying to force these gears together and they're not having it.

I am following all the break-in recommendations except the recommended shift points. I rev higher than whatever results in the recommended 17MPH shift point. Last time this cluckiness happened, I was up-shifting at 2000-2500RPM.

I'm thinking this may be something that will break itself in as the gears mate together etc but I'd like to hear your thoughts. I'm a little concerned about damage to the transmission.

Thanks!
Barring something wrong with it, you need to shift decisively with a little more force than you might be used to. But you don’t push and hold it, you just kick it up and release like kicking a ball. Snap your foot.

Also, try leaning on the shift peg a bit before shifting, to take out any slack. Then when you go to shift you’re already where you need to be.

If it’s popping back into neutral, you missed it, and again need a bit more force, or to do it quicker, or both. After you shift, lean on the peg (as above) which will make it obvious. If it’s locked, you did it correctly. If it goes all the way up again, you missed.

Don’t let the revs spin down, at all. It’s really does not like to change gears below 2000. If it does, bring them back up before moving the peg again.

Upshifting at 2500 could be the problem. The engine is nearly lugging at 2000. You want to keep it over 3000 pretty much always, which means shifting around 3500 minimum.
 

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Thanks. I will definitely make a note of it when dropping off the bike for its first service.

However I was wondering. I come from a Honda CBR 600RR with a red-line at like 17,000RPM which is a very wide range. How my riding style, muscle memory and acceleration expectations translate into this bike is that I have a natural tendency to shift at 4,000RPM. Is there anything wrong with that? In my mind, it's almost 2,000RPM short of peak torque RPM, and only halfway to the red-line. I can't imagine that this would be harmful, but maybe I'm wrong.

PS: I do not get anywhere near WOT (wide open throttle), maybe 3/4. I'm just trying to give this engine a good break-in within the limitations of the manual.
Not harmful at all, 4000 is quite a tame shift point.(You’re for a hell of surprise once you take it anywhere near redline!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not harmful at all, 4000 is quite a tame shift point.(You’re for a hell of surprise once you take it anywhere near redline!)
Thanks for the replies saxmaniac. In about a week I'll have my 500 service done and then I'll really open her up haha.

I'll have to see how "leaning on the shift peg" actually goes in practice. I think I understand what you're saying though. I'll be more mindful about "kicking" it up while keeping weight down on the peg. I have no issues at all with any other gears and so far haven't experienced those false neutrals I've been reading about.

I'll report back here.
 

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Thanks for the replies saxmaniac. In about a week I'll have my 500 service done and then I'll really open her up haha.

I'll have to see how "leaning on the shift peg" actually goes in practice. I think I understand what you're saying though. I'll be more mindful about "kicking" it up while keeping weight down on the peg. I have no issues at all with any other gears and so far haven't experienced those false neutrals I've been reading about.

I'll report back here.
Yeah, first and second are different than the others. I think the gears are cut differently (straight bs helical) but I may be thinking something else.
 

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2018 Scout ABS. 2019 Scout ABS 2014 Road King. And just totalled a new FTR
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I've noticed my '18 takes a more manly poke than my wife's '19. I miss the 1st to 2nd every once in a while. My FTR was the same from 5th to 6th. Had to be a solid lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've noticed my '18 takes a more manly poke than my wife's '19. I miss the 1st to 2nd every once in a while. My FTR was the same from 5th to 6th. Had to be a solid lift.
If man handling it is what it's gonna take, that's what it's gonna get haha. I just felt a little uncomfortable with trying to apply even more force into gears that didn't seem to want to roll together. In my mind I'm visualizing gears not mating and a lot of tension building up if I try to push them further inside one another.

I'll be going on a ride today and adjust my technique a little and let you guys know if that did the trick. I know you guys probably go by sound but do you have an idea of what RPM you're at when quickly accelerating from a stop and going into 2nd gear?
 

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The first to second and not hit neutral it's almost feels like it's a double shift . Like a clunk clunk sound .
Starting from a stop , I'm switching first second and then to third that fast . Up hill , down hill , doesn't matter . Within 100ft I'm in 2nd and another 100ft in 3rd . I cruise between 3rd and 4th on most roads , over 45speed limits I'm in 5th . 65~70im in 6th .
First and second at the 500 mile, indian did the oil change with indian oil it wasn't smooth shifting . Changed to amsiol and so much smoother . After your 500 miles as soon as you get it back change the oil and filter . Super easy to do yourself .I personally won't use indian oil again . I got mine back after 500mile checkup and it still was clunking in first and second and shifts from first to second 80% went to neutral first . Changed oil and its shifting perfect and quieted the engine noise to a purring tiger and you just hear the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Barring something wrong with it, you need to shift decisively with a little more force than you might be used to. But you don’t push and hold it, you just kick it up and release like kicking a ball. Snap your foot.

Also, try leaning on the shift peg a bit before shifting, to take out any slack. Then when you go to shift you’re already where you need to be.

If it’s popping back into neutral, you missed it, and again need a bit more force, or to do it quicker, or both. After you shift, lean on the peg (as above) which will make it obvious. If it’s locked, you did it correctly. If it goes all the way up again, you missed.

Don’t let the revs spin down, at all. It’s really does not like to change gears below 2000. If it does, bring them back up before moving the peg again.

Upshifting at 2500 could be the problem. The engine is nearly lugging at 2000. You want to keep it over 3000 pretty much always, which means shifting around 3500 minimum.
Just got back from a little 40 mile ride and I managed to avoid the dreaded clunking of destruction! I was more mindful about swiftly kicking it up, but time will tell if I can consistently avoid it. I'm still making some slight tightening adjustments to the clutch cable halfway into my rides after everything heats up a little. Out of curiosity, I checked that the recommended shift speed (17MPH in first) occurs at 2800RPM.

I did find myself unwillingly downshifting too gently into neutral instead of first, so I'll have to practice using a heavier foot.


The first to second and not hit neutral it's almost feels like it's a double shift . Like a clunk clunk sound .
Starting from a stop , I'm switching first second and then to third that fast . Up hill , down hill , doesn't matter . Within 100ft I'm in 2nd and another 100ft in 3rd . I cruise between 3rd and 4th on most roads , over 45speed limits I'm in 5th . 65~70im in 6th .
First and second at the 500 mile, indian did the oil change with indian oil it wasn't smooth shifting . Changed to amsiol and so much smoother . After your 500 miles as soon as you get it back change the oil and filter . Super easy to do yourself .I personally won't use indian oil again . I got mine back after 500mile checkup and it still was clunking in first and second and shifts from first to second 80% went to neutral first . Changed oil and its shifting perfect and quieted the engine noise to a purring tiger and you just hear the exhaust.
In most cases on my bike, neutral doesn't get in the way unless the problem I was describing occurs. If that still occurs after my 500 mile service, I'll look into different oils.
 

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Honestly I rarely if ever make it down to 2nd into 1st downshift for much of anything since the engine braking in 3rd and 2nd is more that enough to slow you to a stop I generally wait until I’ve got the clutch pulled in to stop before I kick it down to 1st
 

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Just got back from a little 40 mile ride and I managed to avoid the dreaded clunking of destruction! I was more mindful about swiftly kicking it up, but time will tell if I can consistently avoid it. I'm still making some slight tightening adjustments to the clutch cable halfway into my rides after everything heats up a little. Out of curiosity, I checked that the recommended shift speed (17MPH in first) occurs at 2800RPM.

I did find myself unwillingly downshifting too gently into neutral instead of first, so I'll have to practice using a heavier foot.




In most cases on my bike, neutral doesn't get in the way unless the problem I was describing occurs. If that still occurs after my 500 mile service, I'll look into different oils.
The recommended shift speed is way too low IMO. I think the lawyers recommend the speed, not riders or engineers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The recommended shift speed is way too low IMO. I think the lawyers recommend the speed, not riders or engineers.
Yeah that's exactly why and it's not specific to Indian. My Honda 600RR with a top speed of nearly 170MPH had comparable recommendations.


Honestly I rarely if ever make it down to 2nd into 1st downshift for much of anything since the engine braking in 3rd and 2nd is more that enough to slow you to a stop I generally wait until I’ve got the clutch pulled in to stop before I kick it down to 1st
I agree that engine braking in 2nd does most of the work when coming to a stop.
 

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Thanks. I will definitely make a note of it when dropping off the bike for its first service.

However I was wondering. I come from a Honda CBR 600RR with a red-line at like 17,000RPM which is a very wide range. How my riding style, muscle memory and acceleration expectations translate into this bike is that I have a natural tendency to shift at 4,000RPM. Is there anything wrong with that? In my mind, it's almost 2,000RPM short of peak torque RPM, and only halfway to the red-line. I can't imagine that this would be harmful, but maybe I'm wrong.

PS: I do not get anywhere near WOT (wide open throttle), maybe 3/4. I'm just trying to give this engine a good break-in within the limitations of the manual.
I also came from a ZX-6R back in the day and I recall it taking me a bit of getting used to. Just a cruiser transmission in general, they aren't meant to shift as fast and smooth as a super sport, my guess would be that it has something to do with the tranny being beefier to deal with higher torque and more reciprocating mass taking more energy to slow down during shifts.
 

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I also came from a ZX-6R back in the day and I recall it taking me a bit of getting used to. Just a cruiser transmission in general, they aren't meant to shift as fast and smooth as a super sport, my guess would be that it has something to do with the tranny being beefier to deal with higher torque and more reciprocating mass taking more energy to slow down during shifts.
I struggled at first, but after many thousands of miles, it’s perfectly smooth. Using the right shift point, and getting very precise with the clutch/throttle makes is just as important as the peg.

The Scout wants to be shifted in a very particular way. Figure that out and you’re gold. Can’t force it otherwise.
 
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