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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm planning on swapping out the handlebars on my Chief Classic. The new bars are two inches narrower so changing out the wires shouldn't be a problem. Has anyone swapped out their bars? Is it a pretty straight forward DYI project?

UPDATE: I still haven't got up the nerve or time to do the handlebar change. Has anyone else tackled this project themselves? I'm looking for photos, videos, and encouragement.
 

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I'm planning on swapping out the handlebars on my Chief Classic. The new bars are two inches narrower so changing out the wires shouldn't be a problem. Has anyone swapped out their bars? Is it a pretty straight forward DYI project?
Curious also. Was told that dealers charge 3 hours of labor for the job. Lots of wiring going on inside.
 

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I'm planning on swapping out the handlebars on my Chief Classic. The new bars are two inches narrower so changing out the wires shouldn't be a problem. Has anyone swapped out their bars? Is it a pretty straight forward DYI project?
Put 2" pullbacks on my Classic. Don't know about DYI project, dealership did it. I think it would depend on your own abilities as a mechanic. I've adjusted the height on my bars a couple of times. It is rather straight forward, esp. if you've got an extra set of hands to help...
 

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Hey, if you can cut the plugs outta your pipes, you can do the bar swap, give yourself more credit, and just take your time. I agree though the advent of UT makes me wanna watch a video for everything.
 

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I'm planning on swapping out the handlebars on my Chief Classic. The new bars are two inches narrower so changing out the wires shouldn't be a problem. Has anyone swapped out their bars? Is it a pretty straight forward DYI project?
I put the 2" pullback bars on my Vintage. It's not that difficult, just follow the directions that come with the bars. The hardest part was getting the left handgrip off. I finally sprayed some PB Penetrating Blaster between the grip and the bar. It soaked in and finally slipped right off. Any type of penetrating spray like Liquid Wrench would probably work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool. The bars I'm considering are an aftermarket product and don't come with any instructions. Do you have a PDF or photo of the installation instructions you could share?
 

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Here is the Indian Vintage Handlebar replacement instr.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the PDF bro......now I think I'm goin' all in. Photos to follow when I get the new bars on.
 

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Got my bars today, did you need to adjust clutch free play as the instructions state ? I don't have the manual for that, but I'm sure it's like any other clutch, and I will inspect it b-4 I start of course.
 

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Page 95 in Owners Manual. Make sure handlebars are pointed straight when doing the adjustment.
 

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Page 95 in Owners Manual. Make sure handlebars are pointed straight when doing the adjustment.
Thank you, I feel kinda dumb, as it is on page 101 of my owners manual, and the same as my gilroy was, on the down tube under a rubber boot. Thanks for pointing it out for me.
 

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I just installed the touring handle bars on my Vintage. It is not that difficult if you are comfortable wrenching on your bike. There is NO NEED for any dealer to charge for a replacement grip as noted in this thread. Here is the trick; heat a pot of water to just under boiling, soak the grip in the hot water for 10 minutes and it comes right off. For some unknown reason there is a dab of glue under the black plastic part of the grip that is actually on the bar. The hot water soak softens the glue and the grip slides right off. So, if you opt for having the dealer install them, share this trick with them and save yourself some money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the tip. I'm still a little hesitant because the bars I've got are Dirty Birds and they have right angle corners that might be a hassle to pull the wires through.
 

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Years ago, I ran my wiring internal on a set of apes on my Roadstar. I had to drill the bars, because they weren't made for internal wires. Then, I put the end of a piece of cord in the hole at the bottom and used my shop vac @the grip end to pull the cord through the bars. I used the cord to pull the wires. Of course I didn't have cruise control or throttle by wire on that bike. I haven't looked to see how many wires you would be pulling. But maybe you could pull a piece of wire with the cord and then use the wire to pull the test of the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for you help. When I get a free afternoon (i.e.: Not Riding). I'll give it a go.
 

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Swap on the Roadmaster was not bad. Took me about 4 hours, but I had lots more to deal with (fairing and such). Just make sure you label the connections... My connectors had a piece of colored tape to match the mate and the left side had an "L" written on the connector. I had my wife help me with removal and install so the bars did not drop onto the tank. Have fun!!!
 

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Swap on the Roadmaster was not bad. Took me about 4 hours, but I had lots more to deal with (fairing and such). Just make sure you label the connections... My connectors had a piece of colored tape to match the mate and the left side had an "L" written on the connector. I had my wife help me with removal and install so the bars did not drop onto the tank. Have fun!!!
Yep, pretty straight forward. Wires fit easily through the bars without taking connectors off. Label the connections the way Pappy did and you can't go wrong. Just be sure to keep the master cylinder as level as possible when you remove it. Also, if it's like the Roadmaster, the controls have a pin on the back that goes into the bars. Key thing is to make sure you don't pinch any wires when you clamp up the front and back of the controls. Did that on my Road Glide. Took me an additional 3 hours to find the issue when it wouldn't start.
 
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