You don't necessarily need a lift.. Just adjust each side a few turns, go ride around the block and see if that's better. If not, keep going a few more turns and try again. I really don't recall anymore when I first adjusted mine, but I did about three full turns maybe.
Chief Bobber rear shock preload
Good day Chiefs,
I ride a 2022 Bobber. I'm 6'5" and about 265 lbs.
The rear suspension from the factory is total crap.
Has anyone adjusted the rear preload on a Bobber? Yes, I read the manual, and no, I don't have a lift/stand that can handle the Bobber, so I'm posting to the forum to see if anyone has made adjustments from the stock settings, etc.
Thanks!
I ride a 2022 Bobber. I'm 6'5" and about 265 lbs.
The rear suspension from the factory is total crap.
Has anyone adjusted the rear preload on a Bobber? Yes, I read the manual, and no, I don't have a lift/stand that can handle the Bobber, so I'm posting to the forum to see if anyone has made adjustments from the stock settings, etc.
Thanks!
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Thanks for the response... what is your weight? I realize I can do the turn and ride until I like it method... and am curious if anyone has ever done the recommended measuring method and what that turned out to be as well...You don't necessarily need a lift.. Just adjust each side a few turns, go ride around the block and see if that's better. If not, keep going a few more turns and try again. I really don't recall anymore when I first adjusted mine, but I did about three full turns maybe.
Every dealership is different but mine seems to set the suspension up during dealer prep for a 200 lbs rider. I am (6’-175 lbs) and made small adjustments on my bikes as I broke them in. I have a son-in-law who owns a Chief Bobber. He recently lost 140 lbs! He needed to make some major adjustments to the rear shocks on his Chief.You don't necessarily need a lift.. Just adjust each side a few turns, go ride around the block and see if that's better. If not, keep going a few more turns and try again. I really don't recall anymore when I first adjusted mine, but I did about three full turns maybe.
With your adjustment, how did the rear end change? I feel like mine at the OEM settings is just squishy and all over the place...I adjusted mine factoring in for probably about 250 with gear and all. I could probably adjust it a bit more as well..
If it helps, I have about .5 inch exposed threading from the lock nut to the stop.
View attachment 728960
To preface this, the only time I rode the bike "stock" was back from the dealership and that was after riding my FTR 3.5 hours there to trade in, then I had a dark, cold, and misty-foggy 3.5 hour ride back on the Chief. So my arse was miserable anyway...
I never really experienced any squishiness so I didn't go crazy adjusting. I just wanted to increase the preload a bit to account for my backpack and gear I take to work. The roads are in relatively good shape in Florida but the bumps I do encounter, the back end does feel stiff but planted at least.
I never really experienced any squishiness so I didn't go crazy adjusting. I just wanted to increase the preload a bit to account for my backpack and gear I take to work. The roads are in relatively good shape in Florida but the bumps I do encounter, the back end does feel stiff but planted at least.
To preface this, the only time I rode the bike "stock" was back from the dealership and that was after riding my FTR 3.5 hours there to trade in, then I had a dark, cold, and misty-foggy 3.5 hour ride back on the Chief. So my arse was miserable anyway...
I never really experienced any squishiness so I didn't go crazy adjusting. I just wanted to increase the preload a bit to account for my backpack and gear I take to work. The roads are in relatively good shape in Florida but the bumps I do encounter, the back end does feel stiff but planted at least.
woah, this post just made me realize that maybe I should've adjusted my shocks to accommodate my passengers added weight. that explains why whenever we went through bumps it felt like our lower backs got tackled by a linebacker 🤯
Yeah you don't want to be bottoming out. It's painful, been there done that. The main thing with dual shocks is to get them adjusted equally to the same preload. Use a sharpie marker and mark the collars on both shocks ao you can see the point where you've made a full turn. Afterwards use some rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer to remove the ink marks,
yes, absolutely. the rear preload is IMPORTANT!woah, this post just made me realize that maybe I should've adjusted my shocks to accommodate my passengers added weight. that explains why whenever we went through bumps it felt like our lower backs got tackled by a linebacker 🤯
yeah, i don't feel planted at all...To preface this, the only time I rode the bike "stock" was back from the dealership and that was after riding my FTR 3.5 hours there to trade in, then I had a dark, cold, and misty-foggy 3.5 hour ride back on the Chief. So my arse was miserable anyway...
I never really experienced any squishiness so I didn't go crazy adjusting. I just wanted to increase the preload a bit to account for my backpack and gear I take to work. The roads are in relatively good shape in Florida but the bumps I do encounter, the back end does feel stiff but planted at least.
I have a chief dark horse 22. Height 6ft 3 weight is 190 lbs. The standard set up was a bit soft and bottomed out on bumps. I did 2 full turns per side on the shocks. A big improvement. Not soft feel and better Road holding into and out of bends. Going over road bumps did not experience the bottom out feeling but more of suspension raise and fall.
OK, SO, I have been tweaking the preload on my 22' Bobber and have found that for me, 5 full turns is optimal (6'5", 265 pounds). No more bottoming out, no more wallowing around turns like a huge seal on a National Geographic special... at least now it's functional until I can drop the 2k on the fully adjustable Fox units.
G
I recently bought the Indian Chief Bobber Dark Horse, and I have a lift. And I conducted the sag inspection as described in the manual. It indicates a recommended sag of 45mm or 1-3/4". Here's what I found:
1. It came to me from my dealer with just below 9mm of sag.
2. Completely opening the the lock and adjuster ring to the silver ring on the threads only increased the sag by 4mm.
3. Opening the lock and adjuster ring to the full length of the threads (minus about 3 threads on the end to be safe, moving that silver ring down to the end as well) - the sag is now at 30mm or about 1".
This is measured accurately. I drove the bike around and hit some asphalt bumps and it felt far smoother. However, based on my measurements - the factory shocks (at least on my bike) are incredibly stiff.
I'll most likely need to adjust the preload back up a bit and stiffen it out as the spring breaks in more. Having the lift was a big help in seeing this sag difference. Just 4 or 5 turns just simply wasn't really affecting anything tangible in the measurements. I had to really open it up to see any real difference.
I'm 5'10", 215lbs for reference.
1. It came to me from my dealer with just below 9mm of sag.
2. Completely opening the the lock and adjuster ring to the silver ring on the threads only increased the sag by 4mm.
3. Opening the lock and adjuster ring to the full length of the threads (minus about 3 threads on the end to be safe, moving that silver ring down to the end as well) - the sag is now at 30mm or about 1".
This is measured accurately. I drove the bike around and hit some asphalt bumps and it felt far smoother. However, based on my measurements - the factory shocks (at least on my bike) are incredibly stiff.
I'll most likely need to adjust the preload back up a bit and stiffen it out as the spring breaks in more. Having the lift was a big help in seeing this sag difference. Just 4 or 5 turns just simply wasn't really affecting anything tangible in the measurements. I had to really open it up to see any real difference.
I'm 5'10", 215lbs for reference.
So just fyi….the service manual says eyelet to eyelit you need 11.8 inches at all times….there is no need to ever lift the bike, the user manual is incorrect-the service manual gives the exact spec. Just sit on it and have someone measure the eyelits…if not 11.8 adjust until they are there.
That would be the sag adjustment with the rider's weight on the bike.
99 dollars purchase it thru dealership
That's about where I set mine.I adjusted mine factoring in for probably about 250 with gear and all. I could probably adjust it a bit more as well..
If it helps, I have about .5 inch exposed threading from the lock nut to the stop.
View attachment 728960
@PaleRider - when you say "eyelit to eyelit", what are you referring to, exactly? The bolts on the shock? Or the rear axle to the fender?
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