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I know the 2014-2015 was pure leather and could be retained...etc
Has anyone re-dyed 2016 and up leather bags/seat?


Thanks
I could be wrong but as I understood it, the only change in leather was after 14. I thought they changed the leather for 15 after the sun washing/greening issues of the 14 leather..
That said, I dyed my scouts seat that I got in 16 with out issue.
Did have to do more surface prep though due to the glazing. (Stripping it with glazing remover) which was basically an acetone wipe down.. no biggie..
Good results.
 

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I've debated buying tan leather for my black vintage. Its expensive to purchase new bags, seat and backrest.

Can black be retanned brown?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I e seen some gorgeous dye jobs in leather here. I’d like to do the same thing with my tan and make it darker on my vintage.
Same here.

Thanks Hatt for the response. 2016 and up the leather was some sort of bonded leather, unlike the 2014 pure full grain leather (which is better quality in my opinion, except that it requires more maintenance. So as you said maybe deglazing is required, but not sure if it would accept a new dye or stain. Wondering if anyone on the forum has done it.
 

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Let's think of it this way.. when you get caught in the rain does your leather get soaked? If so, it will dye. Especially if all your looking to do is darken. That's pretty straightforward. I would how ever put more emphasis on learning of how base colors mix with dye. Say this because regular ol color theory does not apply with dyes. IE blue and red doesn't make purple.

So even if it's some sort of bonded leather If it takes water, it will take dye. Just not as well, or the same.
the more you know about the process, the better you can negotiate the the results.

This all said I'm quite certain my Scout seat is the new "some sort of bonded leather"

I made a thread about my doing this. I'll try to find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Very well done and very nice right up, though you lost me on the green and red stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Can I use Acetone instead of Fienbing Deglazer?

And I guess, the question is which color to use in order to make the Vintage tan bags a little darker (more of a brown tone)
 

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I think most have used one of the Fiebing dyes.
 
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On the acetone I'm not 100%. that can be found in general google search. I don't want to say yes to that but I'm pretty sure deglazer is acetone based.

If you stay in the same color range youll be OK. I know tans over existing color will darken it towards orange. While Browns will darken towards the red spectrum. Not saying your stuff will be orange or red. Just what hint it will have.

There are color charts available on line you can use as a base. I believe fiebings has a good one. They list what colors to use to neutralize the existing for color changing, what colors will result in putting a new color over an old, and even how to mix different colors to make a custom color.

I'm sorry I can't be of more help, it's been awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you Hatt.

If any on the forum have dyed their 2016 onward tan bags, pics and/or color choices and results are appreciated.

Thanks to all.
 

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'14 models came with top grain leather. It quickly faded to an ugly green mess. Owners had a shit fit. Indian changed to a different leather in '15. The newer stuff is the same kind you'll see in cars. It's not necessarily top grain, it's sanded then printed with a leather texture. It is NOT bonded leather. Bonded leather is the leather equivalent of what MDF is to wood. They take the scraps, grind them down into small bits, then bind them back together into a sheet. This is the cheap shit leather. Technically still leather though.

Since the leather fiasco of 2014, owners have learned to redye it. It's now this the leather that people desire.

Acetone works good as a deglazer. The purpose of this is mainly to clean the leather of any oils and remove the resolene top coating. The trick here is to redye soon after the deglazer. The acetone removes moisture, leaving the leather really "thirsty" and the dye soaks in really well.

I cut my dye (fiebings oil based saddle tan) with denatured alcohol, about 1:1. I find it works best to apply with a sponge with a blotting motion, not a wipe. This is because the texture of the sponge ends up looking like a leather texture, where wiping can leave streaks.

After a day or two, coat with resolene. This is a protective coating, and will give it a slight sheen. I apply the resolene with a very damp microfiber cloth. Get the cloth nice and soaked with water, then wring it out but not too tight, leaving it slightly wet. Dip in resolene and wipe on.
 
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