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Has anyone put a pedal instead of the peg for the rear brake on their Challenger? I was interested in the pad off a RM or similar, but I see the pedal on those is molded in one piece.
 

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speaking of brake pedals, has anyone also installed an extended brake pedal? Kuryakyn has one for Indian but not for the Challenger. Does anyone know who makes one for the Challenger? i'm looking to extend and lower the stock rear brake position. I guess I got spoiled with the Harley one on my Street Glide.
 

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Indeed. Step 1, buy Kury pedal. I bought a long bolt, as I was installing it the opposite way that Kury intends
614105


Step 2: unscrew peg

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You can stop there and install the pad with the bolt into the swing arm.
 

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nice work.. looks good.. but I'd rather not have to fabricate it. would be nice to find an aftermarket extension kit for the Challenger. I know Kury makes them for other Indian models. I hope they have one soon for our bikes. these are the pains of getting first year, new model bikes. have to wait for the world to catch up.
 

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As series of unfortunate events allowed me to fabricate the bracket - I wrecked my Vintage and tore up one of the Aeromach foot board lowering brackets. The other footboard piece became the raw material to cut out the figure 8 piece pictured above. Without the accident, I don't know that I'd have a source for sturdy aluminum material.
 

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Just so you know. You can buy aluminum coupons that size on eBay for less than a cup of coffee. You’d have to shape and drill, but aluminum is very easy to work with.
I did a search last night and found some pre-drilled 1/8 inch steal brackets that might work. It will not be as easy to work with but the size and general shape is already cut. Just have to drill the holes a little bigger and round off the corners.
I'll keep looking to see if I can find something a little better but I am still doing other mods so this one is still in the background.
 

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As series of unfortunate events allowed me to fabricate the bracket - I wrecked my Vintage and tore up one of the Aeromach foot board lowering brackets. The other footboard piece became the raw material to cut out the figure 8 piece pictured above. Without the accident, I don't know that I'd have a source for sturdy aluminum material.
@Gregor50 can you share the center of hole to center of hole dimension of your bracket?
 

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The dimension was right at 1 inch (25 cm) from center to center. However, the hole diameter in the scavenged piece was too large, compared to the peg bolt diameter (10 mm I think) - but Lowe's coincidentally had a a nylon bushing that fit the aeromach hole exactly and reduced the diameter to fit the bolts.

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If I started from scratch and had the 3/8 thick coupon, I might have tried tapping the 10 mm threads into the shaped coupon for a more professional appearance (although I don't have the billet, the tapping tools, or the "how to" knowledge). . . If you were to fabricate your own, the upper hole would still need a slightly wider diameter, as you still must insert a bolt through the bracket and into the lever arm.
 

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The dimension was right at 1 inch (25 cm) from center to center. However, the hole diameter in the scavenged piece was too large, compared to the peg bolt diameter (10 mm I think) - but Lowe's coincidentally had a a nylon bushing that fit the aeromach hole exactly and reduced the diameter to fit the bolts.

View attachment 614262
If I started from scratch and had the 3/8 thick coupon, I might have tried tapping the 10 mm threads into the shaped coupon for a more professional appearance (although I don't have the billet, the tapping tools, or the "how to" knowledge). . . If you were to fabricate your own, the upper hole would still need a slightly wider diameter, as you still must insert a bolt through the bracket and into the lever arm.
Thanks!
mgg
 

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@Gregor50
I just got through making a bracket to lower my break pedal. I made the hole's center to center 1.25 inches but after dry fitting have found that 1 inch would have been plenty. It's Okay though because I have already lowered the pedal as far as it will go and may just back it up a little. If everything works out I will post pictures. I just fabricated it out of a 1' by 1/8 inch stock steal bar.
The one problem I foresee is that the bolt that connects the bracket to the existing break lever may come loose. All the pressures go against it. I will be using non slip lock washer on both sides of the bolt as well as red thread grip but still I believe this may be the weak point of the system.
 

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Interesting post as I too have had issues with the factory design (it simply isn't ergonomic for my taste, to the point I don't think I'll ever become accustomed to it). I never seem to know exactly where to find it in a pinch...
 

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OKay. I think it turned out pretty good.
I used Nord lock washers on the top piece both between the break arm and the bracket and between the bracket and the screw head. That hole was drilled to 8M so its a perfect fit. I did tap the bottom hole to 8M threads but in the end decided to also put a lock nut on the back of it because there was room and why not make it as sturdy as possible. Also I changed the top screw before tightening to a pan head type as it allows my boot to get a little farther on the peg. I have a flat peg coming but may just stay with this one. (10-3-21) Actually I kept a round peg but found one an inch longer than the one in the picture. So instead of having 4 rubber rings it has 5. The longer the better. It's still working fine.
Metal Circle Grey Silver Aluminium
Product Photograph Font Grey Parallel
Automotive tire Iron Carbon Metal Synthetic rubber
Fender Machine Transmission part Suspension part Automotive engine part
Pipe Engineering Machine Steel Composite material
 

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I never liked the peg for a brake pedal. Changed one to a pedal on a 2012 Vic Cross Country and definitely would on a Challenger. I like the idea of lowering the pedal as every Challenger I've demoed ( 4 of them) has a the peg up too high.
 
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