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Discussion Starter #1
After doing the "cat delete" modification, i was a little concerned about the motor running lean from reduced back pressure. I found a product made in Europe called "Booster Plug" which is a dongle that is inserted between the airbox temp sensor and the ECU computer module. Supposedly it modifies the air temp signal, making the ECU think that the air temp is 20 degrees below actual temp. Since cooler air is denser, the ECU will increase the fuel, enriching the AFR from 14.5 or so to 13.5.
I searched the forum and did not see any comments, although I might have missed something.
Anybody else have any experience with this product, or care to comment?
 

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I think the ECU will eventually adjust to the Booster Plug. Better to get a Doebeck or a Power Commander V to customize your fuel settings.


This dove tails into an earlier question whether the ECU has any "learning" capabilities? After de-energizing my system, my fuel mileage dropped, but has steadily improved with riding, suggesting it has some ability to store riding information. Thoughts?
 

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You did ask! These things are complete rubbish! I have run with a cat delete for the best part of 3000 miles on my FTR no bother, also for prolonged periods of unrestricted autobahn travel in Germany.

Below is a direct cut and paste of my $0.02 worth last time exactly same question was asked elsewhere on more than one occasion!

It is indeed 'too good to be true.' Avoid even at the paltry cost of said item would be my advice! A direct cut and paste post of mine of a thread on another forum on the subject matter and the reasoning behind my inherent hate for these cheap items. Go get a proper tune regardless of the fact it is much more expensive! Engines are modulated, they have safety margins built in so that they can operate in the cold of Alaska/Canada or the heat of Saudi Arabia without any adjustments. A remap will safely take into account your region and climate and then eat into these safety margins to get the best out of your engine whilst still maintaining adequate safety margins. These plug and play boxes often don't give a toss about safety margins but just throw more fuel at the engine.

As an Electrical Engineer and having some experience in the tuning World of 4x4 vehicles there are several ways of 'fooling' the ECU to throw more fuel at the engine across the entire range. There are many drawbacks. The crudest version is simply a resistor to lower the fuel pressure signal to the ECU, so the ECU raises it by means of compensating as it doesn't match its set point. Higher fuel pressure demand means more fuel injected per firing, but it takes NO account of the other engine parameters required to determine if this is a good idea or not.

These parameters can include but are not limited to fuel temperature, boost pressure if turbo'd or supercharged, engine temperature, inlet air temperature, charge temperature, air flow, gearbox gear and so forth,

A remap does increase fuelling, but by altering the maps which are read as a result of looking at all these other parameters FIRST. A simple plug in tuning box lets the ECU work out where it should be operating, and then just bungs some on top, and lies in return.

These simple solutions are best avoided at all costs IMHO. Also what you are getting for your money if you have the acumen can be sourced and put together for less than $10-$15 in most cases.

LATER EDIT Did a bit of research and is as expected. Cut and paste from Booster Plug, spelling errors and grammatical errors included....

If you trick the Fuel Injection ECU to think the ambient air temperature is lower than the actual readings, the ECU will richen up the injected mixture by a certain amount.


The correct enrichment will be a huge improvement to the driveability of your bike.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks to all for the posts!!!! After taking a couple of rides in Standard and Sport i noticed no difference. The low RPM surging is still there; sorry i did not do a dyno run before modifications for a base line. As soon as Bela (Rider's Choice Motorcycles) shoos the winter storage bikes out of his shop, he will do a dyno run for me, and i will post. My main concern is not burning up this nice Indian motor with a too lean condition.....
 

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A booster plug does -close to- nothing as long as the engine is running in closed loop mode, which is the lower and mid rpms on a steady throttle basically. It will try to keep the afr on 14.7. Only when you accelerate it may make a difference.

If surging at low loads and rpms is the problem, consider a PV-3 with a tune from Ryan. Surge free.
 

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You need a tune. A booster plug is like putting a band aid on a massive flesh wound. Nor will it fix your surging issues.

Lots of info out on the internet about them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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A booster plug does -close to- nothing as long as the engine is running in closed loop mode, which is the lower and mid rpms on a steady throttle basically. It will try to keep the afr on 14.7. Only when you accelerate it may make a difference.

If surging at low loads and rpms is the problem, consider a PV-3 with a tune from Ryan. Surge free.
At what RPM at steady throttle does the system, if at all, switch from closed to open loop?
 

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Not sure which rpms, as far as I know a stock bike runs “75% at closed loop” (read that a while a go). I bet that’s at most rpms as long as the load is not too high.

Acceleration and high speed runs typically take the fueling out of closed loop.
 

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Not sure which rpms, as far as I know a stock bike runs “75% at closed loop” (read that a while a go). I bet that’s at most rpms as long as the load is not too high.

Acceleration and high speed runs typically take the fueling out of closed loop.
Got it. Excellent.
 
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