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Looking to adjust my drive-belt and I don't have a 27mm crowfoot. Is that absolutely necessary or can i just use a 27mm box end? I know it's for torque specs but is it possible to go ahead and do it without? Going on a fairly long ride next week and none of the shops near me can get to it for the next 3+ weeks...
 

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I use this Wrench in fact I keep it in my tool bag on my bike just in case. Buy a 14mm to fit your torque wrench if you don't have one now and you can torque with it too. Just keep it at a 90 degree from the head of the torque wrench.
 

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I tightened it back to roughly what it was when I loosened it. But I honestly think it was way too tight from when the dealer did my 500 mile service. I've broken loose lug nuts that were not as tight. I just tightened it back to what my seat of the pants meter said was about 65 foot pounds. The squeak sound is gone and I no longer get a pull to the right... Hoping for the best
 
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I just did mine for the first time. I did not use a crows foot. I took the left muffler off, which took most of the time. I have looked on line, at all the auto parts stores, northern tools and harbor frieght. The only 27mm crow foot i found is included in a set which I will never need any others for $109. I might look some more but I think it will be cheaper to just take the muffler off again next time too. After you figure out how to get it off that was really the worst of it. Also trying to align the belt took me several tries before I got the combination right. I only drove mine around the block a few times but the squeaking sound is long gone.
 

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I just did mine for the first time. I did not use a crows foot. I took the left muffler off, which took most of the time. I have looked on line, at all the auto parts stores, northern tools and harbor frieght. The only 27mm crow foot i found is included in a set which I will never need any others for $109. I might look some more but I think it will be cheaper to just take the muffler off again next time too. After you figure out how to get it off that was really the worst of it. Also trying to align the belt took me several tries before I got the combination right. I only drove mine around the block a few times but the squeaking sound is long gone.
Wrench

605371
 

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Buy a 27 mm extension...it’ll fit between the muffler and axle nut. Bought mine off Amazon. Keep it at 90 degrees to the torque wrench for an accurate reading. 65 ft/lb is the suggested torque. I wouldnt want to go less...the compression supplied by axle nut is the only thing keeping your axle from slipping rearward.
 

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I just did mine for the first time. I did not use a crows foot. I took the left muffler off, which took most of the time. I have looked on line, at all the auto parts stores, northern tools and harbor frieght. The only 27mm crow foot i found is included in a set which I will never need any others for $109. I might look some more but I think it will be cheaper to just take the muffler off again next time too. After you figure out how to get it off that was really the worst of it. Also trying to align the belt took me several tries before I got the combination right. I only drove mine around the block a few times but the squeaking sound is long gone.

Grainger sells the 27mm crows foot. I have a couple of them, but just easier for me to pull the left slip on of and use a socket.
 

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Buy a 27 mm extension...it’ll fit between the muffler and axle nut. Bought mine off Amazon. Keep it at 90 degrees to the torque wrench for an accurate reading. 65 ft/lb is the suggested torque. I wouldnt want to go less...the compression supplied by axle nut is the only thing keeping your axle from slipping rearward.

You mean forward:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Buy a 27 mm extension...it’ll fit between the muffler and axle nut. Bought mine off Amazon. Keep it at 90 degrees to the torque wrench for an accurate reading. 65 ft/lb is the suggested torque. I wouldnt want to go less...the compression supplied by axle nut is the only thing keeping your axle from slipping rearward.
When you say extension what do you mean? Like the others I've looked for a 27mm crowfoot and it's either $50 for the single wrench or $100 for a set i'll never use. I just used an old axle wrench i had from way back in the day from one of my other motorcycles and guesstimated 65ft/lbs and I've rode it 10 miles and it hasn't moved...hoping for the bst
 

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I torque mine with a socket and 3/8 torque wrench. I have an adapter to downsize to 3/8 drive and then I lean on the seat, grab the swingarm and compress the suspension enough to get the torque wrench over the muffler.
 

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Grainger sells the 27mm crows foot. I have a couple of them, but just easier for me to pull the left slip on of and use a socket.
Thanks. There is one close to where I used to go to work. Now that we stay home haven't been by there in months
 

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Or save 50 bucks and pull the left slip on off
Yep felt pretty much like I had done my due diligence in trying to find one. Starting to wonder if the cost of the tool is worth the effort. Getting the muffler off for the first time was challenging and the bulk of the effort especially for the first time. Having done it once, doesn't seem like that big of a deal anymore.
 

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You mean forward:)
No, the left and right axle nut adjusters keep the axle from moving forward. But, these adjusters have no resistance for rearward movement. If the axle nut was loosened, the axle can’t move forward, only rearward.
 

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My torque wrench is 3/8 drive. I wonder if I got the crowfoot and had to add the 1/2 to 3/8 adapter... will it take too much space and not work after all. Feels like I will be removing the muffler every 5k miles. Thanks for the link though.
 

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No, the left and right axle nut adjusters keep the axle from moving forward. But, these adjusters have no resistance for rearward movement. If the axle nut was loosened, the axle can’t move forward, only rearward.

Actually they do have rearward resistance, its called the drive belt....:p:p
 

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Yes, my first attempt didn't work well. I had to back off the adjustment bolt several times to finally figure out the sweet spot. Then I also realized my belt does not seem as straight as I thought it would be. Which is why you need to mark the original positions to know when you should be pretty close. Also figuring out that if the velt is on the right side of the driven pully you have gone too far. Back it up and try again.
 

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Why take muffler off, I loosen the axle nut with a ring spanner then using a belt tensioner get the right belt tension using the RH axle adjuster then I do the belt alignment using the LH axle adjuster, I then retighten the axle nut, make sure the drive is correctly adjusted and pull the shock pin from the frame, it lowers the swing arm axle below the muffler I then re torque the axle nut to spec, reinstall the shock pin and lower the bike down.
 

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Sounds like an option. I didntbeven consider disconnecting the shock. In 5k miles I will consider it. Thanks
 
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