Indian Motorcycle Forum banner
101 - 120 of 125 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,920 Posts
Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I have seen no reason to worry about orientation, nor anything written saying anything to the contrary. The stockers are wound evenly end-to-end without any markings.

Auto part Eyelash Games Metal
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
2,371 Posts
one more qustion. can I leave the rear clutch lever arm attached to the primary cover and just detach the clutch cable? thanks again.
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
2,371 Posts
Well, wrapped up. Got everything put back together. Hell of a time getting the primary cover back on. No oil leaks so far. Even though I had the scoot straight up, lost probably a quart to quart and a half of oil. I'll measure it out and add accordingly. Thanks everyone, especially diesel, for a great thread and advice. I'm now ready for my S3 cams (y)
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
865 Posts
Well, wrapped up. Got everything put back together. Hell of a time getting the primary cover back on. No oil leaks so far. Even though I had the scoot straight up, lost probably a quart to quart and a half of oil. I'll measure it out and add accordingly. Thanks everyone, especially diesel, for a great thread and advice. I'm now ready for my S3 cams (y)
Same here, got my S3 cams going in within the next week or two and might be doing the extra plate clutch as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hello all. I have a 2016 Dark Horse Chief with the 111. Since I am talking to a bunch of Indian fans, I had include a pic of my mother in 1946. She rode an Indian Chief with suicide shifter. Just had to share that. :cool:
572671

I want to thank all of you on this thread for great pics and advice. Now the problem. I did the whole job by removing the clutch pack like dieselgman recommended. everything went together perfect...except one problem. I must have screwed up the shift shaft. I started the bike with a new oil change but the shift pedal will come up and fell like it is almost shifting but no engagement, it just stays in neutral. There is a little play on the down push on the pedal but again, no joy.

I pulled it all apart again and can see nothing wrong with the shift ratchet assembly but would have to take the entire clutch basket off as a unit to tell for sure. I wanted to see if there were any suggestions before I go that route and also ask about the "Crankshaft Locking Procedure - METHOD 2" listed in the manual. The only thing I can find is on 7.12 (page 232) and only lists one method that includes taking off the stador assembly. Also, the stake appears to be a 32mm, anybody know the spec on that. They also mention special tool PF-51239 to rotate the crankshaft, Is that really necessary to turn he shaft. I am not even clear as to why I am turning the crankshaft. I could see if I am working on the cams or other engine component.

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide,
Tom
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
865 Posts
Got my bike back after having some work done to include the Barnett extra plate clutch. Clutch lever weight seems to be a bit higher but not a lot and finding neutral engagement window while cold is bit smaller but not too bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thank you TedMan, I appreciate the feedback. I should have stated that it feels like the clutch is disengaging and engaging beautifully. I can feel the shifter not engaging through the shifter shaft.

I actually had to adjust the clutch arm for my ape-hangers about a year ago because of the poor disengagement issues from the "authorized service center." This is what eventually led me to getting the aftermarket clutch and doing the work myself. They had the tension too high on the clutch cable from the dealer installed apes, which eventually lead to multiple adjustments and then cable failure. I did the new cable and had to set the clutch arm to slightly less than 60 degrees but the damage was already done to the clutch. All glazed over when I pulled them out...like I thought I would see.

I really appreciate the suggestion though and will look at it again to see if I missed something. The last guy who was perfect was crucified 2,000 years ago, and even he had his doubts... ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
oh my,

excellent reading on the last few pages!

I already know a few things about replacing motorbike clutches (as I had a few years back a Sportster which gave me some trouble in that area... let´s say I can replace Sportsters clutches with a blindfold on).... reading this topic I realize that replacing the Roadmaster clutch will be soooooooooooooooooooooo much easier... no special tools required whatsoever, that´s just great.

I was quite worried when I read the shop manual, and reading this topic I realized it would be sooooo much simpler, no need to pull the hub out, that´s just great.

Been waiting for the current clutch to worn out a little more before replacing it, I was even considering having my trusted mechanic to do the job, but I think now it´s time to do it and I can save some money by doing it myself.

All info shown here will be extremely useful. Thanks, RACNRAY, splitt, 70Boss429,dieselgman, Axxehead and all the others on your insight.

Time to put the extra-plate Barnett kit on!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Have an issue with the clutch I put in my 16 dark horse. I've read this thread a ton and some great info and advise so I'm hoping someone can get me in the right direction.
So, the clutch is in and I can pull the lever and release and the clutch engages and disengages. However, shifting is stiff and clunky. I tried moving the clutch arm(had it at 60) and seems no matter where I have it and with the cable adjusted, seems to do same thing. The clutch shaft that the arm connects to does move a little forward and back with slack in the cable. Is this normal or is the worm gear not aligned properly
Any help would be appreciated

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Have an issue with the clutch I put in my 16 dark horse. I've read this thread a ton and some great info and advise so I'm hoping someone can get me in the right direction.
So, the clutch is in and I can pull the lever and release and the clutch engages and disengages. However, shifting is stiff and clunky. I tried moving the clutch arm(had it at 60) and seems no matter where I have it and with the cable adjusted, seems to do same thing. The clutch shaft that the arm connects to does move a little forward and back with slack in the cable. Is this normal or is the worm gear not aligned properly
Any help would be appreciated

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I had the same issue on mine and Dieselgman saved my fuzzy butt. The shift arm was probably jostled while removing the primary cover and this caused the ratchet arm coming off the shift shaft to move. Normally the ratchet arm is below the shifter star but when it jumped it went to rest on top of the shifter star. You will most likely have to remove the clutch basket to do so. I highly recommend getting the Indian service manual, pdf version.

Once I had the basket off, it took all of three seconds to put the ratchet arm back in place.I will attach two pix showing showing it resting on top and one showing after it was returned to the right spot below the shifter star. I will also do a screen capture of the service manual showing the orientation.
596782

596781

596783
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
I had the same issue on mine and Dieselgman saved my fuzzy butt. The shift arm was probably jostled while removing the primary cover and this caused the ratchet arm coming off the shift shaft to move. Normally the ratchet arm is below the shifter star but when it jumped it went to rest on top of the shifter star. You will most likely have to remove the clutch basket to do so. I highly recommend getting the Indian service manual, pdf version.

Once I had the basket off, it took all of three seconds to put the ratchet arm back in place.I will attach two pix showing showing it resting on top and one showing after it was returned to the right spot below the shifter star. I will also do a screen capture of the service manual showing the orientation.
View attachment 596782
View attachment 596781
View attachment 596783
Thank you for the insight. Could this happen even if I didnt remove the basket initially? I will try and get a service manual and tackle removing the basket

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Absolutely. I did not remove the basket at first but just the jostling of the shift arm is sufficient to move the spring loaded ratchet arm. Now that you know what it looks like, you might be able to get your fingers behind the basket to pop the arm back on. Here is another shot of where the arm SHOULD be!

596800


Here is a good shot from above of the shifter star with the ratchet arm in proper position below it, on the far side in pic.

596801


If you can't get the shifter arm back on without removing the clutch basket, then go to Amazon and get the Motion Pro clutch holding tool (link below this paragraph) and you will need a new stake nut and washer. Also, the stake nut is 32 mm. Go on Amazon and ORDER A 6-POINT SOCKET, do not go with a 12-point socket. I always try to get an impact socket and extension, especially when trying to torque to spec.You will get less twist and a more accurate torque.

(Amazon.com: Motion Pro 08-0008 Clutch Holding Tool: Automotive)

DO NOT USE THE IMPACT WRENCH ON THE STAKE NUT!!! This can cause damage to the gear box, or at least this is what I have read and it sounds like good advice.

Be VERY careful using the clutch basket tool. The manual goes through a whole process on page 9-15 to lock the flywheel. You don't have to do that with the tool. Just be EXTREMELY careful with the locking mechanism. The basket looks like cast aluminum and will not withstand the compressive force the tool can create (it has a system similar to a Vice-grip). It will not open wide enough to go fully 180 degrees across the basket but maybe 15-20 degrees short of that. The lock should merely secure it in the grooves of the inner basket. You will also use to torque down the stake nut. The stake nut torques to 125 ft-lb!!! You'll need it.

That's all I can think of for now. Once I realized this was the problem, it was relatively easy to fix. just take your time and I wish you the best of luck. I will post again if I think off anyting else.
TJ
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Absolutely. I did not remove the basket at first but just the jostling of the shift arm is sufficient to move the spring loaded ratchet arm. Now that you know what it looks like, you might be able to get your fingers behind the basket to pop the arm back on. Here is another shot of where the arm SHOULD be!

View attachment 596800

Here is a good shot from above of the shifter star with the ratchet arm in proper position below it, on the far side in pic.

View attachment 596801

If you can't get the shifter arm back on without removing the clutch basket, then go to Amazon and get the Motion Pro clutch holding tool (link below this paragraph) and you will need a new stake nut and washer. Also, the stake nut is 32 mm. Go on Amazon and ORDER A 6-POINT SOCKET, do not go with a 12-point socket. I always try to get an impact socket and extension, especially when trying to torque to spec.You will get less twist and a more accurate torque.

(Amazon.com: Motion Pro 08-0008 Clutch Holding Tool: Automotive)

DO NOT USE THE IMPACT WRENCH ON THE STAKE NUT!!! This can cause damage to the gear box, or at least this is what I have read and it sounds like good advice.

Be VERY careful using the clutch basket tool. The manual goes through a whole process on page 9-15 to lock the flywheel. You don't have to do that with the tool. Just be EXTREMELY careful with the locking mechanism. The basket looks like cast aluminum and will not withstand the compressive force the tool can create (it has a system similar to a Vice-grip). It will not open wide enough to go fully 180 degrees across the basket but maybe 15-20 degrees short of that. The lock should merely secure it in the grooves of the inner basket. You will also use to torque down the stake nut. The stake nut torques to 125 ft-lb!!! You'll need it.

That's all I can think of for now. Once I realized this was the problem, it was relatively easy to fix. just take your time and I wish you the best of luck. I will post again if I think off anyting else.
TJ
Awesome, thank you again. I have plenty of sockets and torque wrenches
I just downloaded the manual, but didnt really say anything about locking the fly wheel, looks like I can pull the shaft after removing the snap ring, then after the stake nut, the entire clutch disc and basket comes of as an assembly. I'll try and get some picks or something back there first. But again, thanks for the insight and knowledge. Hopefully that's an easy fix

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Awesome, thank you again. I have plenty of sockets and torque wrenches
I just downloaded the manual, but didnt really say anything about locking the fly wheel, looks like I can pull the shaft after removing the snap ring, then after the stake nut, the entire clutch disc and basket comes of as an assembly. I'll try and get some picks or something back there first. But again, thanks for the insight and knowledge. Hopefully that's an easy fix

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Ahh, nevermind, I see the procedure.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Ahh, nevermind, I see the procedure.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
So I drove into that today, the ratchet arm is in the correct spot. The shift shaft seemed like it was out a little bit. I dunno. Not sure where else to check if that wasnt the case. Thanks again for the heads up though.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Still having issues with clutch disengaging enough to shift properly. This wholen60 degree thing has me frustrated. I've tried every angle and adjustment I can think of and cant get the bike to shift through the gears properly. If I help the arm "disengage", I can shift fine. And how much rotational free play should there be at the clutch arm without cable tension. I'm pretty stumped here. I am using the stick arm to by the way. Have Barneys short arm ordered.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Would this be the same on a Scout Bobber? The last friction plate going into the "mouths" separate from the other plates "mouth" mounts?

I don't think I did that, I tried to post about my problems installing the Keval Extra PLate Barnett platesh today but I don't see the thread up yet and I'm searching for answers. Unfortunately I did NOT take pictures as I progressed and have everything complete, but wrong. Trying to the find the wrong. If the Bobber needs that last clutch plate to set to the other mount, away from the other plates, that's 1 wrong found.

EDIT - The answer is yes. I did not place that last plate as the image shows, I did today and had a much better, though I still think lower, pressure point on the clutch "arm", Once on, and everthing else completed, there was immiediate difference from yesterday. I had to adjust the new clutch cable some, drawing down the head that slides into the clutch arm until they meshed properly. I think some more adjustment needs done, like a little too loose or a little to heavy in shifts, and a little too loose on the give for the actual clutch lever, so I have an appt on Tuesday to get in a see a mechanic a buddy trusts.
 
101 - 120 of 125 Posts
Top