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Thanks, looks like I'll do this one myself at my next oil change in about a month. Thanks again.
I had just replaced my oil about 1k miles ago, but think I will be dropping the oil this week and go ahead with the spring replacement. I plan to do as discussed above. Done it many times with EVO and Shovelheads clutches exactly this way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
With the bike vertical you don't need to drain the oil. But you SHOULD have a primary cover gasket handy.
Very good advice... You will lose only a small amount of oil with bike in a wheel-dock and upright. You never know when that cover gasket will crack or become damaged during the cover removal process. All it takes is for the seal to be stuck to both sides at the same time (case vs cover). If it remains stuck only to the case, and it has not aged and hardened, then it will seal up OK without being disturbed. If your bike has a lot of time or a lot of miles and the seal has hardened, replacement time for sure. Dealership standard is to ALWAYS replace the seal gasket. There is also the shifter shaft seal and the clutch shaft seal to watch out for, although somewhat less prone to difficulty with keeping your oil where it belongs, and NOT on your garage floor!
 

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Thanks both. I will change the oil anyway, as it is that time, and will certainly get a new primary cover gasket.
 

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Speaking of the cover gasket, isn't the best way to avoid crimping it upon reinstall is to put a very small film of oil on the cover, then place the gasket on the cover and push through several bolts to hold it into place? Any other suggestions here would be useful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
A light grease film will also stick it in place. I personally prefer to put the gasket on engine case first. The shifter shaft provides one point of alignment under bottom middle of cover, bolts in a couple upper corners is advised. Go slowly and carefully, observe everything during the process so that gasket and seals are kept in place and not stressed or deformed. These go together quite easily.
 

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Speaking of the cover gasket, isn't the best way to avoid crimping it upon reinstall is to put a very small film of oil on the cover, then place the gasket on the cover and push through several bolts to hold it into place? Any other suggestions here would be useful.
Like Dieselgman & CraigB, I also use grease. My method (which I've used on hundreds of motorcycles) is to grease both sides of the gasket with grease ("white" lithium grease or generic "axle grease"- doesn't matter which) and "stick" it to the engine case. Install the cover, torque the screws and wipe off any excess grease that shows externally.
 

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Another question. Looked in the service manual but didn't say anything about loosening up the clutch cable adjuster before removing the clutch arm and snap ring on the retainer. Is this recommended? Thanks again in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Isn't it funny how some things are just assumed? Of course you will need full slack on the clutch cable and to disconnect it in order to pull the cover.
 

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ok, last question I think. looking at the bolts that hold the floorboard, they look hard to get to straight on. the bottom one in particular is half blocked by the lower shift arm. I can probably get to the top, but any advice here would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Yep, you have to remove the shift linkage to pull the left floorboard. No big deal, just a 10mm bolt from the inside. Fact is, that linkage has to come off anyway to pull your cover.
 

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Yep, you have to remove the shift linkage to pull the left floorboard. No big deal, just a 10mm bolt from the inside. Fact is, that linkage has to come off anyway to pull your cover.
I was just looking over the springs last night. It doesn't look like there is a preferred way to put them in. Can they go in either way? Thanks.
 
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