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Well, I replaced my stock cable with the Barnett cable and shorted clutch arm. What a pain in the ass.. had no idea the down tube had to nearly be taken off. After much cursing I got it out and the new one in. The arm install is still a mystery as according to barnett “you put it in the same place”. Sorry, but they are not the same in anyway and there is no way to correctly index it. The manual says a 60 degree angle looking from the bottom and backwards so it is so simple to figure out.....

cable is stretching some so it will need a couple adjustments.. the biggest issue I see is there in NO bellow at the clutch end of the cable as there is on the oem.. this leaves the opening of the cable housing open to rain and water if you wash the bike.. the water will go in and sit on the cable until it drys as the hole is pointing up.. VERY POOR DECISION I think.. the old one could not be taken off to move it over.

has anyone had a problem yet with this?

mark
 

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Well, I replaced my stock cable with the Barnett cable and shorted clutch arm. What a pain in the ass.. had no idea the down tube had to nearly be taken off. After much cursing I got it out and the new one in. The arm install is still a mystery as according to barnett “you put it in the same place”. Sorry, but they are not the same in anyway and there is no way to correctly index it. The manual says a 60 degree angle looking from the bottom and backwards so it is so simple to figure out.....

cable is stretching some so it will need a couple adjustments.. the biggest issue I see is there in NO bellow at the clutch end of the cable as there is on the oem.. this leaves the opening of the cable housing open to rain and water if you wash the bike.. the water will go in and sit on the cable until it drys as the hole is pointing up.. VERY POOR DECISION I think.. the old one could not be taken off to move it over.

has anyone had a problem yet with this?

mark

No need to index the shaft arm, the factory doesn't. All you need to do is Install the cable and set the cable adjuster loose. Put the cable in the shaft arm rotate the arm to take out any slack (don't pull too tight) them put the arm on. Then adjust clutch cable as needed.

As far as the boot. Many have cut off the old one, and then cleaned it well and put it back on and used a very small amount of RTV Silicone and glued it back together
 

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Here is the instructions here how to do this





theMucker said:
Reinstallation:
1. Remove the screw from the Barnett part and put some Never-seize or grease on it's threads
2. Screw the cable adjuster all the way in
3. Grab the knurled shaft at the clutch cover and turn it as far as it will go in the same direction that the cable will pull it. You're just taking up a little bit of slack in the mechanism, so it won't move much.
4. Liberally grease the end of the cable, including the last 1" of cable
5. Install the cable on the Barnett part
6. While pulling the cable taught, install the part on the clutch shaft
7. Reinstall the screw on the part and snug it with a 5mm hex wrench
8. Wipe away the excess grease with a rag
9. Readjust the cable slack at the cable adjuster.
10. Ride that motorcycle!
Peeps concerns with indexing and geometry are unfounded and are overthinking things. @theMucker has presented the EXACT manner of installation, I must point out that nmbrs 2 thru 6 are the key to proper installation. Took the words right outa my keyboard!!!

RACNRAY
 

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Well, I replaced my stock cable with the Barnett cable and shorted clutch arm. What a pain in the ass.. had no idea the down tube had to nearly be taken off. After much cursing I got it out and the new one in. The arm install is still a mystery as according to barnett “you put it in the same place”. Sorry, but they are not the same in anyway and there is no way to correctly index it. The manual says a 60 degree angle looking from the bottom and backwards so it is so simple to figure out.....

cable is stretching some so it will need a couple adjustments.. the biggest issue I see is there in NO bellow at the clutch end of the cable as there is on the oem.. this leaves the opening of the cable housing open to rain and water if you wash the bike.. the water will go in and sit on the cable until it drys as the hole is pointing up.. VERY POOR DECISION I think.. the old one could not be taken off to move it over.

has anyone had a problem yet with this?

mark
Please excuse my ignorance on this but why are we replacing the clutch cable? Enlighten me please. Thank you
 

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Please excuse my ignorance on this but why are we replacing the clutch cable? Enlighten me please. Thank you

The factory clutch cables periodically break at the clutch lever around 8000 miles and up. One of the things that happens when you put tension on a cable that routes and twist through the frame, fairing, handlebars, etc. Is that it tends to twist especially at the clutch lever. This causes premature failure. Also friction as the cable slides into the clutch lever.

Both the factory and Barnett cables are Teflon coated on the cable and cable sheath. The Barnett has a different design at the barrel end. Instead of the solid typical barrel you see on many cables. Barnett uses a round ball that sits and is allowed to rotate in the barrel. This allows the cable to twist without putting stress on the cable and barrel end.

Many do this as a preemptive measure to not be left on the side of the road.

Barnett.jpg
 

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Further thoughts about the arm position: Forum Link

#15 11 mo ago

theMucker said:
Reinstallation:
1. Remove the screw from the Barnett part and put some Never-seize or grease on it's threads
2. Screw the cable adjuster all the way in
3. Grab the knurled shaft at the clutch cover and turn it as far as it will go in the same direction that the cable will pull it. You're just taking up a little bit of slack in the mechanism, so it won't move much.
4. Liberally grease the end of the cable, including the last 1" of cable
5. Install the cable on the Barnett part
6. While pulling the cable taught, install the part on the clutch shaft
7. Reinstall the screw on the part and snug it with a 5mm hex wrench
8. Wipe away the excess grease with a rag
9. Readjust the cable slack at the cable adjuster.
10. Ride that motorcycle!
Click to expand...
Peeps concerns with indexing and geometry are unfounded and are overthinking things. @theMucker has presented the EXACT manner of installation, I must point out that nmbrs 2 thru 6 are the key to proper installation. Took the words right outa my keyboard!!!

RACNRAY
 

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The factory clutch cables periodically break at the clutch lever around 8000 miles and up. One of the things that happens when you put tension on a cable that routes and twist through the frame, fairing, handlebars, etc. Is that it tends to twist especially at the clutch lever. This causes premature failure. Also friction as the cable slides into the clutch lever.

Both the factory and Barnett cables are Teflon coated on the cable and cable sheath. The Barnett has a different design at the barrel end. Instead of the solid typical barrel you see on many cables. Barnett uses a round ball that sits and is allowed to rotate in the barrel. This allows the cable to twist without putting stress on the cable and barrel end.

Many do this as a preemptive measure to not be left on the side of the road.

View attachment 592687
wow; Thank you guess I need to make yet another improvement on my ride; seems it never ends.
 

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wow; Thank you guess I need to make yet another improvement on my ride; seems it never ends.
Just buy a Save Ur Ride emergency clutch repair kit. I just traded my 16 RM with 34k and the clutch cable looked new...not one broken strand. I don’t see any reason to swap out cables if your factory one is in good shape.
https://savurride.com/
 

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Just buy a Save Ur Ride emergency clutch repair kit. I just traded my 16 RM with 34k and the clutch cable looked new...not one broken strand. I don’t see any reason to swap out cables if your factory one is in good shape.
https://savurride.com/
Good to know as I'm on my 3rd Indian Bagger put nearly 20k on one, the other about 6500 no issues whatsoever with clutch cables.?
 

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Just buy a Save Ur Ride emergency clutch repair kit. I just traded my 16 RM with 34k and the clutch cable looked new...not one broken strand. I don’t see any reason to swap out cables if your factory one is in good shape.
https://savurride.com/
Last year I rode a rented Roadmaster in Switzerland and France for a couple of weeks. I took my Save Ur Ride cable with me to Europe, along with a flat tire fix kit. I never needed either and my '16 Roadmaster still has it's original clutch cable, but it pays to be prepared.
 
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