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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went for a leisurely Sunday ride today and ended up taking a couple wrong turns that took me down a dirt road, and eventually on to a dirt bike trail. I was following the GPS, so I figured it was safe, but eventually the trail got treacherous.

I'm a pretty skilled rider, so tried to stick it out, which turned out to be my dumb idea of the day. I lost traction in the dirt and slid into a good size rock sticking up, like a stalagmite, from the ground. With a nasty "CLUNK", the motor died while I was about 2 miles deep in a national forest with no cell service. A couple dirt bikers rode by, not even stopping to ask if things were ok, and I set to trying to diagnose and triage whatever damage I took.

Turns out the sidestand switch took a direct hit, and was snapped off its mounting. Fortunately a couple zip ties and some gorilla tape got me back on the road pretty quickly.

The screws broke off in the frame, so those will need to be extracted, but hopefully this will be a swift and simple repair. The question is, do I replace the switch or set to bypassing it altogether?

Anyway, now I'm upset and sore so I'll be spending the rest of the day drinking and trying not to think about it.

But at least I didn't drop her.
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must have been a close one, glad you pulled through.
 
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I ran over a curb 5 years ago and broke my kickstand switch off the same way. It's been taped to my frame ever since. I don't miss it.
 

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2012 Indian Chief Vintage . 2016 Indian Roadmaster
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I call the GPS on my iPhone, "that lying bit.h." I almost got jammed up with the Canadian Border patrol once because of it (lets say I had guns that aren't legal in Canada in the Ranger and had inadvertently crossed into Canada a few meters without my passport and side by side not permitted in New Brunswick, luckily they were understanding and let me go after confiscating my trout I caught in Maine) I'm glad you and the bike are ok. Since that debacle I purchased a Garmin inReach Explorer and 2 way Satellite Communicator , kind of pricey but extremely accurate. I mainly use it when out in the woods near my house in Maine when I'm way out on the Ranger. I have used it in Europe and New Zealand as well with no difficulty at all. It has definitely saved my bacon on a few occasions in the wilds of Maine. Kept me from riding into swamps and such. One thing about a road bike, not good on gravel at all.(don't ask how I know):mad: I hate that switch also. I am glad you made it out ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Zip ties and gorilla tape. In the old days it was Araldite and string. :)

It sounds like you've already got it sufficiently fixed to keep you going. Tape it out of the way and ride on.
I'm only 40, but I've been in some scrapes where all I had was 550 cord and bailing wire, but I much prefer my modernized kit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Opted to bypass the switch while the replacement comes in. I just couldn't go 2 weeks without riding!

A little slice and splice, a bit of electrical tape, and a couple zip ties, and she's all buttoned up. I'll be off for a test ride shortly to make sure all is well.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well,

I got her out and running, everything feels good. But the chasis warning indicator is on constantly so I gotta get that figured out.

Before I completed the bypass, this indicator seemed to be tied to the side stand switch indicator but now that I've bypassed that I presume that is what's tripping the chasis indicator.

Any input or suggestion is appreciated. I'll aim to troubleshoot this weekend.
 

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I had the impression that your roadside fix was to tie the switch in the kickstand's up position. Did the warning light come on then?

What's the difference in how you've got the switch configured now compared to the early fix?
 

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My warning lamp only comes on when my switch is activated and this isolates my starter motor. I must have miss understood. I have had my switch play up and could not ride until I fixed it
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had the impression that your roadside fix was to tie the switch in the kickstand's up position. Did the warning light come on then?

What's the difference in how you've got the switch configured now compared to the early fix?
Apolgies for the confusion, hopefully I can clarify. The roadside fix was to set the broken switch on the floorboard and wedge it in between my foot and the shift lever. During that time, it would run for a while without issue or any warning lights. Then, as I rode for a bit, the chasis warning came on and eventually so too did the side stand warning.

Of course the side stand warning killed the motor, so I engaged the clutch, wiggled my foot, and the side stand warning went away, so too did the chasis warning- I'm pretty sure the two are both responsible for the same issue, the bike doesn't like that the sensor is missing.

The difference is that the busted switch was still attached. I've since severed the busted switch, and bypassed it completely, so I can still ride. Also, where the old switch was mounted horizontally on the bike, the wires are now zip tied up the clutch cable.

I've ordered a new switch. While I am perfectly happy bypassing it, I cannot tolerate warning lights on the cluster. It's bad enough during the day, but blinding at night! Hopefully this replacement will solve the problem but if you have any other ideas or pointers, I'd appreciate the knowledge!
 

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Hope you get it all figured out. Amazing story. I personally trust these GPS things on either my phone or from the RC only so much. Been sent around in circles one too many times, cheers.
 
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Apolgies for the confusion, hopefully I can clarify. The roadside fix was to set the broken switch on the floorboard and wedge it in between my foot and the shift lever. During that time, it would run for a while without issue or any warning lights. Then, as I rode for a bit, the chasis warning came on and eventually so too did the side stand warning.
OK, thanks for the update. I imagined you'd zip tied the switch itself to close the electrical circuit.

The switch has only two wires so it doesn't have a diagnostic third wire checking that it's mounted to the frame. This means the bike should read the switch normally if it's elsewhere.

The switch is open when the stand is down, closed when it's up. It might be that the switch wires are not 100% connected in the present setup.

The beige/black wire goes to the ECM and there's a hint in the service manual that the ECM reads the resistance value and not just open/closed. One possibility is that if it's borderline it might throw the chassis warning as if to say the switch is starting to misbehave - almost closing but not failing completely.

I'd check that you've properly closed the circuit where the switch used to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK, thanks for the update. I imagined you'd zip tied the switch itself to close the electrical circuit.

The switch has only two wires so it doesn't have a diagnostic third wire checking that it's mounted to the frame. This means the bike should read the switch normally if it's elsewhere.

The switch is open when the stand is down, closed when it's up. It might be that the switch wires are not 100% connected in the present setup.

The beige/black wire goes to the ECM and there's a hint in the service manual that the ECM reads the resistance value and not just open/closed. One possibility is that if it's borderline it might throw the chassis warning as if to say the switch is starting to misbehave - almost closing but not failing completely.

I'd check that you've properly closed the circuit where the switch used to be.
Really appreciate your insight.

How can I check this? I cut the 2 wires goong to the busted switch, and spliced them together. In my mind that should complete the circuit. And I can start it with the kickstand down, plus the side stand indicator doesn't come on. I was hoping the ECM was measuring resistance, provided by the switch, but I'm not sure how to check this.

My next step is to wait for the replacement switch. Maybe that will resolve my issue.

I went and looked closely today, and aside from taking a couple dings to the exhaust crossover tube, but nothing major, and no other observable damage.

Here's to hoping!
 

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Splicing the wires together should do it, unless the wires are bit oxidised. The service manual says the switch is closed when in the riding position and continuity should be less than 1 ohm. My take on that is that if the switch gets dirt inside and does not close completely the ECM will register it as failing but not dead yet - and initiate the chassis fault light. That's only my guess from reading the manual which doesn't give any detail.

If your connection is good and the light is still coming on it's got me puzzled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Same. And I'll add more craziness to the mix.

Rode to a spot for dinner, just up threw road, last night. On the ride there, the chasis warning was on the whole time. We went and ate, I got back on the bike, flipped the switch, and she fired right up.. with no warning.

Rode through the parking lot and before I shifted into 2nd the warning was back. I read somewhere about the ECM needing to "catch up" to a change and I'm not sure I put much stock in it but I am hopeful.

Either way, she ran fine for that ride. I plan to take a longer ride this weekend and see what happens. May end up needing to take her to the stealership if I can't figure it out.
 

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Splicing the wires together should do it, unless the wires are bit oxidised. The service manual says the switch is closed when in the riding position and continuity should be less than 1 ohm. My take on that is that if the switch gets dirt inside and does not close completely the ECM will register it as failing but not dead yet - and initiate the chassis fault light. That's only my guess from reading the manual which doesn't give any detail.

If your connection is good and the light is still coming on it's got me puzzled.
Shifty is correct the switch should be a N/C switch. The resistance on a 2.5mm square 100Mtr long ( trail wire) is 1 ohm so That should be zero ohms on a continuity test. 1 ohm suggests that the circuit has electronics being the PCB (ECM) . Bypassing the switch should be fine normally . I am curious if there is any electronics inside the switch to alter voltage or current. Like Shifty suggested check the connection where you bypassed. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Shifty is correct the switch should be a N/C switch. The resistance on a 2.5mm square 100Mtr long ( trail wire) is 1 ohm so That should be zero ohms on a continuity test. 1 ohm suggests that the circuit has electronics being the PCB (ECM) . Bypassing the switch should be fine normally . I am curious if there is any electronics inside the switch to alter voltage or current. Like Shifty suggested check the connection where you bypassed. Good luck
The original switch was obliterated in this debacle, so what little guts I salvaged were not very telling about what happens inside the switch.

I'll check my splice work today to see if that makes any difference.

I also need to figure out where these wires terminate. While the diagram doesn't show the replacement switch coming with wires attached, I presume they will and I'll have to unplug these old spliced wires to plug in the new switch after mounting it to the frame.

Gotta see if I can find a Clymer book on the shelves here locally too!
 
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