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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had been looking for some taller bars for my 2014 Chieftain, and checking out all the brands when I found a decent deal on a set of Arlen Ness bars on Ebay.
They got delivered this even and i just finished installing them a little bit ago. I haven't gotten to take them out for a test ride yet, but I will tomorrow when it's dry outside.
What little information I had found on these bars led me to believe that they would give a 2" rise in bar height. I actually got a 4" rise. The ability to adjust the angle of the grips was nice, plus with the bars being in 5 pcs made it simple stupid to run the wires internally. This is the first set of bars I have ever had that came as multiple pcs.
I was worried about going to tall, due to the 2014 having the short brake line. I was able to use both my stock clutch cable and brake line. I did however have to re-route the clutch cable so it didn't go through the triple trees.
I may have to adjust them a little when my Ultimate tall boy seat comes this week.
I debated all morning about going to the dealership today and getting a set of heated grips (I do own heated gloves) so that I could install them at the same time but I didn't feel like doing the 1.5 hr drive each way.. Now, if I had the day to do over, I would have went and gotten the grips. My only regret with these bars.
For my first time tearing into this bike, everything went very smoothly. I pulled the fairing all the way off to do this because I also installed my Truck-lite LED lights while I was at it. Getting the inner fairing back on by myself was the hardest part and that wasn't that bad.
Oh yeah, the first attempt putting the bars together ended up the switch housing on the mounted on the wrong side with the wires ran internally. luckly it was no issue as it was so easy to re-run the wires on the correct side.
 

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They look good. If you remove the headlight you can access the lower rised bolt and remove them. Unplug all the electrical connections. Remove the switch housings and the bars come off. No need to remove the fairing. But, whatever works for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
They look good. If you remove the headlight you can access the lower rised bolt and remove them. Unplug all the electrical connections. Remove the switch housings and the bars come off. No need to remove the fairing. But, whatever works for you.
Thanks
I had seen the video of doing it that way and I would have but I had to remove the outer fairing in order to replace the driving lights with the Led ones anyway, so I just saved it to do all at once. Once the outer was off it was only 4 more nuts to remove the inner.
 

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Nice job!-----I just picked up a low mileage 2014 too and have been debating between the Ness and the Trask Bro Bars.

With price point essentially equal love the edge on the ANs might just be ------"the bars being in 5 pcs made it simple stupid to run the wires internally"

Regarding your Truck Lights --(per the photos I'm guessing they're the 2727OC Phase 7's) was your install a simple plug & play?---NO Codes---ALL three lights fully functional?

Many report that the first year 2014s require the updated 2015+ VCM which is like $500 new and according to my most local dealer, they claim that's the only sure fix to convert over to LED's---no re-flash to the orig OEM possible which does't square with the testimony of some others on the forum(s).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I like the Ness bars, but haven't had a chance to put many miles on them yet. I got lucky and found this set new on Eaby and got them for about 1/2 price. (would have been $80 cheaper if someone hadn't bid against me in the last 3 minutes) but that's how those auctions go.
As for the lights they have plus and minus. I have been using this set for about 7 years. This is the 4th bike they have went into. I love the Phase 7 lights (but really don't have any other LED lights to compare them too) I run them in my road star as well. Great for lighting up the road at night. I ride to work almost everyday in the dark in heavy deer areas, so good lights are a must.
They were not plug and play, but didn't take much to get them to work.
FYI: my bike had the flash for stage one pipes when It was new, but not sure if that makes any difference

Spot lights - I had to get adapters, (actually I made mine as I had most of what I needed) as they have the wrong style pugs on them. Many people just cut the wires and soldier them together, but I wanted to be able to remove and use them on other bikes down the road should I need to. I think Kuryakyn sells a set for about $17. Otherwise they worked fine.

Headlight- Based on everything I read you have to install inline resistors to get the headlight to work right. 55w 6ohms for the low, and 55w 8ohms for the high.
I bought this Motorcycle Headlight Load Resistor - H4 LED Headlight Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs motorcycle headlight load resistor that is plug and play for just $8.95 all I did was make a little plate to mount it to, help absorb any heat and plug it in and it works great so far.
My headlight would not work right until I got this.
 

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Great looking bike, I'm also looking at Arlen Ness for my 2016 Chieftain. Which model did you install on your 2014, I-1812 or I-1810 ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great looking bike, I'm also looking at Arlen Ness for my 2016 Chieftain. Which model did you install on your 2014, I-1812 or I-1810 ?
Thank you, I installed the I-1810. Now I wish I could get some free time when it's not raining so I can try them out a little more. For what few miles I have gotten to ride with them, they are very comfortable.
 

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You know---

I remember quite vividly when you first posted with questions about a used Indian.

You never know from a few posts what kind of fellow a person might be--

I am impressed by the bike you got as well as the work you've already done on it.

Obviously you are a REAL biker and a kindred spirit.
Loved the post and pix and learned a few things for future reference!

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good to know---thanX for the details on the LEDs.--most helpful.
Just thought about something I forgot, With the spot lights I was not able to use the little doors inside of the fairing as the lights stick back too far. I'm not sure if other LED spot lights are like this or not.
 
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