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Discussion Starter #1
I had plenty of time to take my time with this valve spring swap as the new springs had been sent out for micro polishing and cryo treatment. With the Busa I had a second skoot to ride, so to continue my wackacrazickle mind set I decided to continue with what I call the "industrial" look, which was started with the machining I performed on my horn cover. With the head top covers off they were gonna be my next victims, as Dr. Frankenstein might have said, and my orthodontist would say when he came into the exam room!!!

The covers got bolted onto my mill (they were fully tranquilized so felt no pain) and I machined slots in between the ribs. The covers had slots milled on both sides and towards the front with the stainless steel screening affixed inside.

Looks kinda cool but just as I thought, those openings allow some valve train noise out. Those covers are very thick, unnecessarily so but no doubt to aid in noise control. But it's not bad at all. I was gonna put green LED's inside the covers for a sinister night time affect but decided not to!.


I also took out the rear axle to put it in my lathe and used a center drill bit to create a centering hole on both ends so I can use my axle alignment tool to align the axle to the swingarm pivot. Theoretically the steering head bearing bores and the swingarm pivot bore are the most precisely machined and most important in terms of the chassis, and aligning the axle to s/a pivot is a good thing. Using this tool is so much easier than the "string run between the wheels method of alignment. Thru the years using this tool have found the marks on swing arms to be off.

Got 100 or so much needed miles on it last nite!!!

RACNRAY
 

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I had plenty of time to take my time with this valve spring swap as the new springs had been sent out for micro polishing and cryo treatment. With the Busa I had a second skoot to ride, so to continue my wackacrazickle mind set I decided to continue with what I call the "industrial" look, which was started with the machining I performed on my horn cover. With the head top covers off they were gonna be my next victims, as Dr. Frankenstein might have said, and my orthodontist would say when he came into the exam room!!!

The covers got bolted onto my mill (they were fully tranquilized so felt no pain) and I machined slots in between the ribs. The covers had slots milled on both sides and towards the front with the stainless steel screening affixed inside.

Looks kinda cool but just as I thought, those openings allow some valve train noise out. Those covers are very thick, unnecessarily so but no doubt to aid in noise control. But it's not bad at all. I was gonna put green LED's inside the covers for a sinister night time affect but decided not to!.


I also took out the rear axle to put it in my lathe and used a center drill bit to create a centering hole on both ends so I can use my axle alignment tool to align the axle to the swingarm pivot. Theoretically the steering head bearing bores and the swingarm pivot bore are the most precisely machined and most important in terms of the chassis, and aligning the axle to s/a pivot is a good thing. Using this tool is so much easier than the "string run between the wheels method of alignment. Thru the years using this tool have found the marks on swing arms to be off.

Got 100 or so much needed miles on it last nite!!!

RACNRAY
Clever, and interesting effect. How did you attach the screens? Do you have some pictures of your alignment rig?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Clever, and interesting effect. How did you attach the screens? Do you have some pictures of your alignment rig?
I had to form the screens by hand and epoxied them in place.

It is the last pic,#12. It is fully adjustable and has pointed cones to allow centering in the shafts.
 
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You should do the LED lights. It would look like little miniature stained glass chapel windows...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I now have about 600 miles since the springs installation and the machine work. Those openings in the top covers do allow a little bit of noise to be heard as compared to before. Those top covers are really thick and I surmise they are that way to Aid in noise control. It certainly is not bad so no complaints. As far as the openings in relation to engine temperature, Maybe. I rode today over 200 miles, dashboard temperature gauge was between 96 and 100 degrees, a lot of the ride was is on cruise control at 60 miles per hour and the pvcx show between 248 to 256 degrees, but one thing I noticed was sitting at long red lights the engine temperature didn't climb as quickly. But really I'm only talking a degree or two of change, but it was for the looks I did the Machining. Going to ride it a little bit more, bang on it some and then get it up on my dyno to see what it's making with these stage 3 cams.
RACNRAY
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh by the way funny thing, I was chastised on an Indian Facebook page that I was using a drill chuck to hold the End Mill. But then I admitted I was also using a four flute rather than a two flute Mill so I am such an amateur! LOL
 

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Oh by the way funny thing, I was chastised on an Indian Facebook page that I was using a drill chuck to hold the End Mill. But then I admitted I was also using a four flute rather than a two flute Mill so I am such an amateur! LOL
Cite the end results and tell them there are many ways to skin a cat.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Nice look! Any concerns with rain getting into the heads?
Good question... not my project, but I had the same thought. I do know there is no risk of water getting inside the engine (inner valve cover is gasketed and sealed), and the engine heat should certainly be sufficient to dry any moisture getting inside that outer cover. I wondered about how the screens were attached inside. The screens should be sufficient to keep out insects and larger debris.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nice look! Any concerns with rain getting into the heads?
NOPE...nothing is under there other than the rocker cover plus these covers are NOT sealed in any manner to any part of the heads, they are open all the way around between the top fin of the head and the bottom lip of the covers.

Good question... not my project, but I had the same thought. I do know there is no risk of water getting inside the engine (inner valve cover is gasketed and sealed), and the engine heat should certainly be sufficient to dry any moisture getting inside that outer cover. I wondered about how the screens were attached inside. The screens should be sufficient to keep out insects and larger debris.
The screens are attached with epoxy and are of a fine mesh to also keep dogs and small children out.

RACNRAY
 
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