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If you have Akros and the cat delete I understand the baffles will need to stay in. Just an alert to the group. It’s baffles or the delete, not both.
 

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Depends on where you got which tune....

The way I understand

- FM: cat delete OR baffles out, not both
- RP (or actually, Ryan): we have a tune for cat delete AND baffles out
 

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Depends on where you got which tune....

The way I understand

- FM: cat delete OR baffles out, not both
- RP (or actually, Ryan): we have a tune for cat delete AND baffles out
The tune cannot bend the laws of physics. Performance, throttle response, and running quality are significantly better with the baffles in when removing the catalyst, this is why we strongly recommended it to our customers. Unless you have performed specific testing both ways with supportive firsthand data saying otherwise from your bike (not a different shops or tuners) it is just speculation and secondhand data. S&S and other companies have the same stand with their exhaust systems.

Can we supply a different tune with the baffles removed and the link pipe? Yes. Will we tune your bike remotely if you purchase the PV-3 from FM? Yes. Will this fix deficiencies in the exhaust combination? No. Either way we are happy to help, we just want to set our customers up for the best combination and experience.
 

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This is a very interesting post. I can say I was up at Fuelmoto a couple weeks ago to work with Jamie as well as a Dynojet Software Engineer. The Indian bike available at the time was Jamie's FTR1200, under very hard load/deceleration it will pop, I cannot imagine it running no CAT and no baffle! That would be a plain open pipe with horrible exhaust physics....Jamie has stated in his post why it pops, which as a tuner myself, I agree with.

To distill it down further: Anytime you open up an exhaust (no CAT & no Baffles), it will suck air into the exhaust on throttle close, any unburned fuel will ignite...causing a pop. This is a fact.

There are means to minimize this, and one of many reasons Jamie and I work very closely with Dynojet engineers. There are new setting tables and strategies that emerge from this relationship that has helped and will help mitigate this issue. It has helped all Indian tuners over the past 3 years. The best way to minimize deceleration exhaust popping is to keep a baffle(s) in...not for back-pressure (never a good thing in a 4-cycle engine), but to maintain exhaust velocity.

With all this said, if Ryan has truly eliminated this condition in an open pipe, I would love to see it. @Max Kool how about videoing your bike without baffles and CAT showing how it does not pop.
 

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I have the cat installed (just the baffles out), and am not planning on removing the cat. In this configuration my bike does not pop noticeable on the overrun.

I didn’t even know this discussion was about popping, more about “how it runs”...
 

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I have the cat installed (just the baffles out), and am not planning on removing the cat. In this configuration my bike does not pop noticeable on the overrun.

I didn’t even know this discussion was about popping, more about “how it runs”...
It is all about performance, exhaust deceleration popping is what is most noticeable in this configuration. Most people find it highly objectionable and that affects how they feel about the tune. At least that has been my observation from tuning Indians for the past 3 years.

An open pipe can be tuned for the best possible performance it is capable of. The problem is this performance is subpar to what can be achieved with a properly designed exhaust. And one thing you cannot get rid of will be the exhaust popping. In fact, it will be excessive on the FTR1200.

There is no magic wand a tuner can wave to make a poor design perform as well as a proper design.
 

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Well op has the info. One tuner says it can be done, and has had satisfied riders with said configuration. The other says it can’t. Bickering on a forum isn’t going to change anything.

Best to contact both personally.


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Well op has the info. One tuner says it can be done. The other says it can’t. Bickering on a forum isn’t going to change anything.

Best to contact both personally.


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To be correct, the one (Fuelmoto) DID NOT say it can't be....Jamie said it was not optimal.

"Can we supply a different tune with the baffles removed and the link pipe? Yes. Will we tune your bike remotely if you purchase the PV-3 from FM? Yes. Will this fix deficiencies in the exhaust combination? No. Either way we are happy to help, we just want to set our customers up for the best combination and experience."

I think that is very clear that it can be done, but is honest on the results.
 

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Ok one says it can be done and run optimal. The other says it can’t run as optimal.

Better?

Also to be fair. If using a stubby slip on. He did say it will run like pop. But the larger factory pipes work well with it.

Per him.

Again. Contact HIM. WITH questions.

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Well op has the info. One tuner says it can be done. The other says it can’t. Bickering on a forum isn’t going to change anything.

Best to contact both personally.


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Diddn't say it can't be done. Rather said for best performance, response, and driveability to leave the baffle in. We want to set customers in the best direction and give straight up, honest advice.

Speaking of open pipes, wasn't it you that put our link pipe on your bike with a stubby, open muffler with a video on the FTR FB group of it shooting flames and popping? What are you running for a tune? Are you going to continue to run this configuration?
 

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Yes it was. I removed it directly after that post as it was too loud after one day. I was running Ryan’s slip on tune. Even it had minimal popping on decel. And he did tell me it would run like crap even with his cat tune. It was an experiment, but the db level was way to high to continue said experiment.

I’m waiting for the toce low mount and the tune associated with that. Which so far seems to have the best ride ability, power curve, and peak hp.






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Let me understand something.... i ordered a mid pipe to remove the cat.
i understand that it's only 5 min work & i don't need to remap the bike....just start it & go... am i wrong?

(Have the race replica model with the akra)
 

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Let me understand something.... i ordered a mid pipe to remove the cat.
i understand that it's only 5 min work & i don't need to remap the bike....just start it & go... am i wrong?

(Have the race replica model with the akra)
There are those that will say you absolutely must flash your ECU. There are those that will say it's a good idea to flash to optimize performance. There are those that will say you'll damage your motor if you don't. Some say bolt on and go. Lots of opinions.

I ran with the link pipe without flashing. I did not get any warning lights as some predicted. I ran it with the FM map as well. Honestly, the difference was slight for me. A bit overall smoother with the FM map. On-off throttle in 3rd and 4th was a bit more abrupt / responsive though with the FM. I liked it better with the OEM map. I removed it because it was just a tad loud for me in the rev range I spend time in.

Lots of aftermarket exhaust manufacturers sell free flowing slip ons for many different kinds of bikes and don't require remap.

The PV-3 is a fun albeit expensive toy to play with. Goes well with the fancy dash.
 

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Again i dont understand these posts on tuning.removing all back pressure is trouble for a tuner that requires a fuel controller and a tune from a dyno operator,costing hundreds of dollars.i run straight pipes on my vintage,with cat removed.and a k and n air filter.my bike runs great.i havent had my bike in a dealers shop since the first oil change.with most my riding along side multiple harleys,i think i picked up a couple of ponies.so what am i missing?other than a hole in my wallet.
 

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Ride ability. Not so much peak hp. Ride a properly tuned bike and you will under stand why the hole in your wallet is worth it.

The ftr engine characteristics are much different than yours as well.


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