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Hi all,
I have posted about low voltage issues and related error codes before and finally gave up on the bike. I have had the bike for 1 year with only 1K miles and do not trust the bike. It was great for a while until 4 months ago when I went to start it and it had erratic throttle response after a short idle where it threw error codes for the ECU, throttle body sensor 1 and 2 low voltage errors. It also showed the check engine light. I shut it down and put it on my battery tender. I used another bike in the mean time while I contacted Polaris and my dealer about it. They said put it on a charger/maintainer (which I did for a week) and tried it again. This time it started again, idled fine, but still had erratic/poor throttle response again and then backfired and died. Contacted Polaris again about it to set up a ticket for them to follow-up with my dealer when I could get it in the shop (6 weeks later....). The dealer said everything is fine and that it was low voltage and that the battery is weak. That is what they said Polaris told them too and that it has a poor design on the Challenger battery used. The thing is that the bike is idling/running when the throttle body/ECU complains of low voltage. The bike is running off the alternator not the battery at that point! They said the components are fine and to try it again and bring it back if it happens again...Whaatt? ! I paid $30k for a bike that they want me to do research and development on so they can get more data points. I have to pay to get it into the shop, wait 6 or more weeks to get an appointment, and they may or may not find anything...again (if under warranty).. All they do is clear the codes/check engine light and hope for the best. The dealer admitted that they do not know what the issue is other than what Polaris tells them and Polaris does NOT know what the problem is. They blame it on the battery which is wrong. Polaris needs better QUALITY ASSURANCE before they field a new model and not let customers check it out for them, especially at a premium price. I was all into the Indian experience, but found that it was a big mistake taking a chance on the Challenger for me and my first, and probably last, American (of which I was proud of) bike. I ended up trading it in on a much more reliable bike/brand. I lost money on the deal as the bike loses value, but it was worth it to get piece of mind on a better/more reliable machine. Hope you other Challenger owners have a better experience than I did. All the best and keep the shiny side up.
sucks to have these problems. it's 100% not your job to fix a warrantied bike, they should never return it to you without a plausible diagnosis and solution that's documented. they just push it out until the 2 years is passed up then its not their problem. best of luck on the new ride!!!!
 

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Hi all,
I have posted about low voltage issues and related error codes before and finally gave up on the bike. I have had the bike for 1 year with only 1K miles and do not trust the bike. It was great for a while until 4 months ago when I went to start it and it had erratic throttle response after a short idle where it threw error codes for the ECU, throttle body sensor 1 and 2 low voltage errors. It also showed the check engine light. I shut it down and put it on my battery tender. I used another bike in the mean time while I contacted Polaris and my dealer about it. They said put it on a charger/maintainer (which I did for a week) and tried it again. This time it started again, idled fine, but still had erratic/poor throttle response again and then backfired and died. Contacted Polaris again about it to set up a ticket for them to follow-up with my dealer when I could get it in the shop (6 weeks later....). The dealer said everything is fine and that it was low voltage and that the battery is weak. That is what they said Polaris told them too and that it has a poor design on the Challenger battery used. The thing is that the bike is idling/running when the throttle body/ECU complains of low voltage. The bike is running off the alternator not the battery at that point! They said the components are fine and to try it again and bring it back if it happens again...Whaatt? ! I paid $30k for a bike that they want me to do research and development on so they can get more data points. I have to pay to get it into the shop, wait 6 or more weeks to get an appointment, and they may or may not find anything...again (if under warranty).. All they do is clear the codes/check engine light and hope for the best. The dealer admitted that they do not know what the issue is other than what Polaris tells them and Polaris does NOT know what the problem is. They blame it on the battery which is wrong. Polaris needs better QUALITY ASSURANCE before they field a new model and not let customers check it out for them, especially at a premium price. I was all into the Indian experience, but found that it was a big mistake taking a chance on the Challenger for me and my first, and probably last, American (of which I was proud of) bike. I ended up trading it in on a much more reliable bike/brand. I lost money on the deal as the bike loses value, but it was worth it to get piece of mind on a better/more reliable machine. Hope you other Challenger owners have a better experience than I did. All the best and keep the shiny side up.
Same experience here. After 8 months, sold the bike.
 

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I've always had an interest in the Goldwing, and the newer/leaner version is admittedly more appealing to me although I totally get the negative reaction from the GW faithful.
 

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Thank you! Good to hear you have great experience with your steed! I ended up going with the....2021 Gold Wing Tour 6 speed manual transmission. Very different with the six cylinders vs v twin which I am so used to The misses and me will take some long rides together on this puppy, even though she has her own Scout Icon (nice bike).
Great bike.......if I were to buy a "metric" bike, it would be a 6-cyl Honda. Enjoy.....and stay safe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I had my VTX1800 on vacation and suddenly lost about half the power. So much so that I didn't think it was going to make it up a big hill with my wife on the back. It was a bit scary. When I took it to the dealer I used, they tested the battery and it tested "bad" and replaced it. The bike still started ok with the other battery but acted like it ran on a single cylinder. After they put a new battery in, it ran great again. Very strange. They swore they didn't do anything other than the battery.
That's interesting. I am hearing more of these examples that simply replacing the battery takes care of more issues than I would have thought. Wish Polaris AND the dealer would have suggested this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I've always had an interest in the Goldwing, and the newer/leaner version is admittedly more appealing to me although I totally get the negative reaction from the GW faithful.
Same here. I like the leaner version too. It rides like a sport tourer
 

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Given that the dealer and Polaris did not want to address the problem I would have used the Lemon Law provision and got my money back.
That's interesting. I am hearing more of these examples that simply replacing the battery takes care of more issues than I would have thought. Wish Polaris AND the dealer would have suggested this.
Well, at least you still have a Challenger Avatar ;). Enjoy the Goldwing!
 

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Same here. I like the leaner version too. It rides like a sport tourer
There are times where I miss my Concours, and also look really hard at the 14+ FJR1300's. The Connie was a great bike but admittedly the 4cyl had a slight buzz that got to me (very subjective thing obviously) and its long overdue for an update. If my Challenger wasn't such a hoot I'd be looking at an H2 SX w/ bags as a fun-ass sport touring bike. Supercharged engine and cruise control, with hard bags still? Yes please.
 

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Indian corporate seems to keep making the same mistake with the electronics. The early TS111 had similar battery issues. Rumor has it PI buys like 20k batteries at a time.

So with new models they usually manufacture enough to get stock to the dealers. So figure your bike was made 6 months to a year prior to the born on date, then ships across the pond 4-5 weeks, then sits in the port, then ships to Spiit lake, then sits at the dealer for a time, and boom. Your brand new bike may already have a 2 year old battery off the floor. And all this electronic parenting and engineered draw for the memory and clocks takes it toll quicker these tiny batteries.

I am one of the lucky ones, my 2017 still is running on the original battery; knock on wood. But I never did any of the things to trigger the parasitic draw on the I-18-02 recall issues on the earlier models.

I think Indian needs to tighten up on their electronic issues. The Bosch ECU an VCU are just to damn sensitive to any abnormal voltage, ie, the constant grounding checks etc. that you have to do to insure they don't pop codes and go into protection mode to protect the bike.

I can say this. Indian wants everyone to have a great experience with their bikes, but it does take some time to ferret out these electronic issues. The I-18-02 service bulletin was a complete embarrassment, but they did eventually figure it out and rectify the situation.

So I respect that.
 

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Yeah, thy said they load tested the battery, but why would the bike throttle be erratic because of the battery? The bike is "running" and at this point using the alternator. I wished it would have been as simple as the battery. Tnx.
These bikes have computers galore. Not to mention your throttle is by wire as well. If any voltage is out of whack it will cause all kinds of problems and running off of the alternator/stator will NOT provide clean power if your battery has a dead cell... With any newer vehicle the first thing I do is change the battery to a known good battery if I get any kind of service engine lights... You would be surprised how often that fixes everything
 

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i had similar symptons on my chief. it was diagnosed as a throttle sensor , in all honesty it was likely caused by the way i was riding( with no triple tree) it hard pushing on the handlebars /throttle on bends plus weight of sidecar etc. worked fine since i altered my riding.
 

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Just a crazy theory, and I'm no electronics wiz.......but, is it possible that most of the issues are due to shitty batteries? If a cell drops briefly while riding, can that cause the computers in these bikes to cause faults, shut down etc.?
It seems that some of you have changed to good batteries, and have had no more issues....
 

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That's an interesting thought. The battery almost ends up acting like a large capacitor when the bike is running. Potentially smoothing out the voltages from the stator. If it wasn't able to do that properly, it might act strange. Just a thought.
 
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I just read apparently Polaris put out the APB warning to all dealers to quit screwing up installing the negative cable to frame, delivering bikes with discharged batteries and not making sure the terminals are tight. This is all on the dealers, as the batteries are not fully connected when they arrive at the dealers. I knows this because I have seen them pull them off the truck and do the prep work.
 

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Most of the time these type issues are battery related. Lose connections or just a bad battery....
Buy the best battery ( not the dealer sells) that will work for the bike with these issues. These modern bikes have too many bells and whistles. A slightly weak battery plays havoc with them.
Lastly do a bit of wrenching. Check any connectors. Add a bit of dielectric grease. Thighten all fittings. Get to know your bike and what makes it go.
 

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Most of the time these type issues are battery related. Lose connections or just a bad battery....
Buy the best battery ( not the dealer sells) that will work for the bike with these issues. These modern bikes have too many bells and whistles. A slightly weak battery plays havoc with them.
Lastly do a bit of wrenching. Check any connectors. Add a bit of dielectric grease. Thighten all fittings. Get to know your bike and what makes it go.


The YUASA batteries that come with the bikes are some of the best you can get, but that doesn't help when they are allowed to discharge sitting at the dealership, and then not be connected properly.
 

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The YUASA batteries that come with the bikes are some of the best you can get, but that doesn't help when they are allowed to discharge sitting at the dealership, and then not be connected properly.
I would think that the battery would not discharge if it's not connected. I saw a brand new battery getting ready to be installed that was already 11 months old. A lot of the problems start at the factory and yes the dealers should be putting the bikes on battery tenders after the PDI. For me my battery had an internal short within the first 700 miles not good for Yuasa or Indian
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
These bikes have computers galore. Not to mention your throttle is by wire as well. If any voltage is out of whack it will cause all kinds of problems and running off of the alternator/stator will NOT provide clean power if your battery has a dead cell... With any newer vehicle the first thing I do is change the battery to a known good battery if I get any kind of service engine lights... You would be surprised how often that fixes everything
That appears to be the case often enough. The dealer and Polaris should know this! Us customers should not have to troubleshoot for them especially after taking it to the shop. Lol
 

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I would think that the battery would not discharge if it's not connected. I saw a brand new battery getting ready to be installed that was already 11 months old. A lot of the problems start at the factory and yes the dealers should be putting the bikes on battery tenders after the PDI. For me my battery had an internal short within the first 700 miles not good for Yuasa or Indian
Batteries do discharge especially lead acid type just sitting. Not enough for a few weeks, but 6 months to a year, yes they can go below 10 volts which causes issues.
 

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I got one of the first batch of 2020 Challengers, so there was a good chance that I got a relatively new battery, and I bought my bike from a competent dealer 300 miles from my home. At the 2500, 5000,10,000, 15,000 miles service i made a point to have the service writer to check battery terminals. So far at 22000 miles my original battery has held up. I put the battery on a trickle charger from time to ti.e, just to see how quickly the light turns green. So far its ok. Most likely because I put a lot of miles on it. If I were the guy that started this topic, I would have bought a aftermarket battery, installed it myself and if that didn't work, I would take it to the next level. Too many complaints about defective Indian batteries to not go there first.
 
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