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Discussion Starter #1
I've been trying to figure this one out for several days now.. several people have tried helping from the FB scout page... we are all at a loss.

before anyone suggests taking to dealer, they are backed up by 2 weeks. trying all options before I ground the bike for at least 2 weeks.

Background:
I was riding around town and the rear brake started to feel a little mushy. kept getting worse and worse so I pulled over to see what was up... the dust cap was melted and the bleeder valve was leaking fluid whenever I pressed the brake. I went straight home and parked the bike to let her cool...

What I tried to do to fix:
next day I went to see what I could do to fix it. put a wrench to the valve and it was super loose. YAY! easy fix! checked the reservoir and it was empty... SHIT, now I have to bleed the system. I went to the dealer and grabbed some indian brake fluid (dot 4). filled her up, attached a hose to the bleeder valve and started bleeding... I used this procedure: Press brake > open valve > close valve > release brake > repeat.

I ran a good 2 - 3 reservoirs worth through, tightened her up and no pressure... I could free spin the wheel and stop it with the brake... but there wasnt enough pressure to stop me from spinning the wheel with the brake on... so got SOME pressure... just not near enough. pedal goes all the way down to the metal.

I cleaned all parts of really well and then pumped the brake a good 100 times... no visible leaks of any kind. I figured I did something wrong so I decided to bleed a few more reservoirs through... same thing. went out and purchased a vacuum pump... bled the system again... same thing! UGH!

I'm no expert mechanic, so I decided to bleed the front brake and see if I get the same thing... did the same manual procedure (Press brake > open valve > close valve > release brake > repeat) for a good 3 reservoirs worth of fluid.... worked great! brake works great, nothing wrong at all. well, we ruled out my procedure... I did however notice that a lot more fluid would pump out with each press of the lever.

has to be a leak... put it all back together, cleaned everything up, moved the bike to a clean spot in the garage, and let it sit overnight. next day... not so much as a single drip. gloved up and ran my fingers over every part that could possibly leak... nothing.. bone dry. Pumped brake a good 100 times again and still bone dry.

Master cylinder... pulled that part and inspected everything... looks good. no visible wearing on the gaskets or anywhere else... cleaned it all up, put it back together... same thing... no pressure.

pulled part the caliper. everything looks fine... I compressed the piston, pumped fluid and the piston does come back out... but very very slowly.

something some where somehow isnt building enough pressure and for the life of me I cant figure out it... at this point I'm about to order a new master cylinder and caliper just to get this thing running again.

I did go to the dealer and talked to them about it... they never heard of anything like what I am experiencing. they also confirmed there is no special procedure for bleeding the brakes with ABS. They did say they could do it under warranty, but honestly, I'd rather just pay if it means not losing 2+ weeks of riding time. I'm in ohio, we value every day we get :)

I'm at a loss guys... before I start ordering parts, I decided to ask the hive mind and see if you guys can think of anything I haven't tried already.

Thanks in advance!!
 

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You said the back caliper bleeder valve was loose when you checked it correct?

If this is the case and you were riding it when all this was going on, then you ran out of fluid to the point you were sucking air into the system and you probably have air in the ABS module.

You will not be able to eliminate the air from module without the ability to engage the ABS for maintenance, which only the dealerships can do.

Get yourself an appointment with the dealership, Park the bike because it's not safe to ride, and trailer it to the dealership for your appointment.

Chuck

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That could do it! I also just took it for a spin around the neighborhood to see if the ABS module needed to "charge" or something... obviously didnt do anything but now I'm also getting a 520550 5 error code... cant find that code anywhere but I'm willing to bet good money its related to the rear abs module.

Thanks! going to try a couple other dealers to see if they can get me in any sooner. definitely not going to ride it until its fixed.
 

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There is no rear or front ABS module there is only one module that controls anti-lock braking for both front and rear.

Unfortunately this appears to be a dealership fix that you cannot avoid. Once a reservoir is empty, it begins to suck air into the system and now you're done!

At this point your bike is very dangerous to ride, please consider a tow to a dealership.

Chuck

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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It's odd that the dealer says there is no special procedure to bleed the ABS. The dealer has (should have) a tool that locks the ABS solenoids open so it can be bled properly. Unfortunately, you are not the first to run up against this. It sounds like you have the expertise to do the work, but the ABS tool is the magic sauce for this one.

One thing you can do is investigate why the dust cap had melted and why the bleeder was loose. Are the pads rubbing on the disc and heating up the caliper? There must be a reason for the initial failure. That slow piston return you mentioned might indicate the need for a clean up. It would be a shame to get it fixed only to have the same thing happen down the road.
 

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Unfortunately it's not a tool to engage the ABS, they connect to the bike and engage it electronically.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all for the replies. 10 more days to get to the dealer. Hopefully they cover under extended warranty... dealer said they should no problem even with the mods i've done. "as long as the brake system is still stock, it will be covered"

I think the cap melted because the new 2-1 exhaust runs a lot closer to it... pipe is maybe 3/4" away from the bleeder.

Have not been riding it at all... luckily I have a second bike so I can at least keep riding :)
 

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I think the cap melted because the new 2-1 exhaust runs a lot closer to it... pipe is maybe 3/4" away from the bleeder.
The extra heat might also mean the caliper is heating up and the fluid doesn't like it. It might be worth looking into some sort of heat shield. Maybe a vertical plate that fastens to the exhaust mounting frame and sits just outside the caliper.
 

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If it got hot enough to melt the dust cap it probably got the fluid hot enough to boil causing a loss of braking.
 
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