Indian Motorcycle Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Rider
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, I'll say that I haven't had time to pull the seat off yet to check the connections. Bike stays plugged in to a Harbor Freight battery tender. It started fine last week. I went to get on it today and it powered up and lights came on. When I hit the starter, I got nothing. Not even a click. I thought maybe the security with the FOB was bad, but there is no security key on the dash. I even put the code in manually and nothing.

This evening when I got home, I put it back on the tender and within 5 minutes the light was green on the tender indicating that the battery should be fully charged. I did check the voltage with the power on and the tender unhooked and it only showed about 4 amps. I tried to start it again once the tender was green and left it plugged in. When I hit the starter switch, there is a loud pop that comes through the speaker and nothing else. It won't click, turn over, or anything.

I had a gel battery in my Harley Road King Classic that was about 2 years old and it was also on a Harbor Freight battery tender. It went bad and I had to buy a new battery. I saw later where the gel batteries don't like the Harbor Freight battery tenders, so I think I ruined that one. I didn't put a gel battery back in.

Anyone had any experience with the Harbor Freight battery tenders causing batteries to go bad? I'm hoping it's just a loose connection. I'll be able to take a look at the connections tomorrow.
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
First, I'll say that I haven't had time to pull the seat off yet to check the connections. Bike stays plugged in to a Harbor Freight battery tender. It started fine last week. I went to get on it today and it powered up and lights came on. When I hit the starter, I got nothing. Not even a click. I thought maybe the security with the FOB was bad, but there is no security key on the dash. I even put the code in manually and nothing.

This evening when I got home, I put it back on the tender and within 5 minutes the light was green on the tender indicating that the battery should be fully charged. I did check the voltage with the power on and the tender unhooked and it only showed about 4 amps. I tried to start it again once the tender was green and left it plugged in. When I hit the starter switch, there is a loud pop that comes through the speaker and nothing else. It won't click, turn over, or anything.

I had a gel battery in my Harley Road King Classic that was about 2 years old and it was also on a Harbor Freight battery tender. It went bad and I had to buy a new battery. I saw later where the gel batteries don't like the Harbor Freight battery tenders, so I think I ruined that one. I didn't put a gel battery back in.

Anyone had any experience with the Harbor Freight battery tenders causing batteries to go bad? I'm hoping it's just a loose connection. I'll be able to take a look at the connections tomorrow.

A battery tender only charges the battery when it drops below usually 80% depending on the unit. Trickle chargers always charge the battery and if left on will usually destroy them.

Don't know about which Harbor freight unit you have, but I have heard from others on the forum that the Harbor Freight version is really a trickle charger and should not be used other than to charge a battery, and not leave on.

Deltran is known for good battery tenders, and I have never had an issue with a battery using one.

So if your uit is really a trickle charger, then it is the cause of the bad battery.

Did you ever get the new ECU flash that came out in March of 2018 to address the parasitic draw down issue the ride command bikes had?
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is what I have. Harbor Freight calls it a battery maintainer and float charger. It advertises that it keeps the 12v battery fully charged. Here's the description on their website:

Keep your battery fully charged with this compact, handy float charger. The float charger/maintainer supplies voltage to match your 12 volt battery's self-discharge rate, keeping your battery "topped off" at all times without overcharging. Ideal for vehicles in long term storage, 12 volt backup batteries for sump pumps and other applications that need a battery to be kept fully charged between long periods of nonuse.

It does say on their website to use on wet lead-acid or AGM batteries only and to not use it on Gel batteries. It sounds like it's meant to stay plugged in at all times to keep the battery topped off. Do you know if the battery is a Gel battery or not?

I've had this bike for about 10 months. If they didn't reflash it before they sold it to me, I haven't had it done yet for the parasitic draw.
578268
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
This is what I have. Harbor Freight calls it a battery maintainer and float charger. It advertises that it keeps the 12v battery fully charged. Here's the description on their website:

Keep your battery fully charged with this compact, handy float charger. The float charger/maintainer supplies voltage to match your 12 volt battery's self-discharge rate, keeping your battery "topped off" at all times without overcharging. Ideal for vehicles in long term storage, 12 volt backup batteries for sump pumps and other applications that need a battery to be kept fully charged between long periods of nonuse.

It does say on their website to use on wet lead-acid or AGM batteries only and to not use it on Gel batteries. It sounds like it's meant to stay plugged in at all times to keep the battery topped off. Do you know if the battery is a Gel battery or not?

I've had this bike for about 10 months. If they didn't reflash it before they sold it to me, I haven't had it done yet for the parasitic draw. View attachment 578268

According to the documentation it seems to be a Tender and not a trickle charger. There are lots of reasons batteries go bad, one for sure which is very common, is most "new" batteries" are never charge properly in the first place which greatly shortens thier life.

When a bike is bought new, the battery is installed at the factory with the negative cable disconnected. That bike can sit at the dealer for a very long time with the battery never being charged. Although new to you the battery has already been sitting and discharging for a long time. Then the dealer "quick" charges it to get the customer on their way.

Could be just loose connections or a bad battery.
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
1,114 Posts
The battery should be measuring 12.4--12.6 volts, not 4 amps. Don't know to say about the pop sound through the speakers, but it sounds like your current battery is shot and needs to be replaced
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It was a hold over. It's a 2018 and I bought it last May 2019. If I need a new battery, where do you guys buy from?
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
The battery should be measuring 12.4--12.6 amps, not 4 amps. Don't know to say about the pop sound through the speakers, but it sounds like your current battery is shot and needs to be replaced


You mean volts not amps:)
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have a batteries plus store about an hour away. Thanks for the recommendation. I plan on digging in tomorrow and troubleshooting before I go and buy a battery. Appreciate the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
If you bought last may should be under two year warranty would ask dealer I just bought my 18 Chieftain in November was told full two year warranty good luck
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
986 Posts
I have found with some of the cheaper chargers/maintainers, that they do not work well and actually cause a battery to die quicker. I had a schumacher that did this and come to find out it was only charging batteries to about 80%(around 12.4 volts). I then bought a Battery tender and it charged the batteries to 100% at about 12.8 volts. Also you have to verify that the charger is AGM compliant. Some just are not.

Also most battery maintainers say to NOT start the bike while it is hooked up to the bike. It can damage both the maintainer and the bike.

Good luck and let us know what it was.
 

·
Silver member
Joined
·
5,128 Posts
You should be able to pick-up a Yousa battery at any auto parts store...
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you bought last may should be under two year warranty would ask dealer I just bought my 18 Chieftain in November was told full two year warranty good luck
Thank. I didn’t think about the battery falling under the warranty of the bike. You know how they don’t cover normal wear and tear items. I guess this should be covered though. I’ve had this bike for less than a year. If I find out the battery’s dead, ’ll check with the dealer to see if it is covered.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bmoore

·
Rider
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here's what I found out. The voltage meter on the bike shows the voltage registering around 4 volts with the key on and not running. I checked the voltage on the battery with the key off with a voltmeter and it read 11.6. I checked all the connections, both on the battery and the frame and they were all tight. I even loosened them and tightened them back up. I jumped the bike with my battery booster and it cranked up and the voltmeter on the bike showed that it was charging. The voltmeter showed 14.4 volts. When I cranked the throttle, the voltage meter on the bike bottomed out and it threw several codes. I've attached screenshots of them to this post. I'm not sure what is going on with the bike.

I did update the software with the latest off the ride command website a couple of weeks ago. I don't know if that is the problem or not. Any ideas? I may have to end up dragging it to the dealer.
578385
578386
578387
578388
578389
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Here's what I found out. The voltage meter on the bike shows the voltage registering around 4 volts with the key on and not running. I checked the voltage on the battery with the key off with a voltmeter and it read 11.6. I checked all the connections, both on the battery and the frame and they were all tight. I even loosened them and tightened them back up. I jumped the bike with my battery booster and it cranked up and the voltmeter on the bike showed that it was charging. The voltmeter showed 14.4 volts. When I cranked the throttle, the voltage meter on the bike bottomed out and it threw several codes. I've attached screenshots of them to this post. I'm not sure what is going on with the bike.

I did update the software with the latest off the ride command website a couple of weeks ago. I don't know if that is the problem or not. Any ideas? I may have to end up dragging it to the dealer. View attachment 578385 View attachment 578386 View attachment 578387 View attachment 578388 View attachment 578389

The battery is bad, dead. It should read 12.4 to 12.6 volts. The fact the voltages drops could mean the battery is shorting and or a bad regulator.
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
448 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The battery is bad, dead. It should read 12.4 to 12.6 volts. The fact the voltages drops could mean the battery is shorting and or a bad regulator.
So, the next question is, did the battery just die or did my float maintainer kill it? I've got these same float maintainers on all 8 of my motorcycles. This one has been on this bike since I bought it new, which is about 11 months.
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Basically when you were reading 4volts on the bike, that meant the bike was drawing the battery down which means it is toast. What concerns me is that you say 14.4 volts with the bike running which is perfect. But then you advanced the throttle and the voltage dropped to 4 volts again. Hopefully the regulator didn't get damaged.

But I can say for sure what killed the battery. Could have been a bad battery or bad battery tender.
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
944 Posts
When your voltage drops below 12.6 volts the bikes ECU will start to turn things off like the ABS. As you can still stop without it, it removes the ABS so that it can keep more vital systems running. I would assume that it would remove more if needed. So most of those codes are probably due to your sudden drop in voltage. I would remove the battery call the dealer see what they have to say then take it in and have them test it. If it is bad it should be under warranty. If you bought the extended warranty it may include towing. When I try to restart my bike after a failed attempt and I don't turn off the power button I get what could only be a voltage surge to the radio and the volume goes way up and when the bike starts it goes back to normal. The loud pop you heard could be something like that.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top