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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All!

Hey, I was hoping the group might provide some directional assistance for me. I have enjoyed my 17' Roadmaster from new until now, with 16K trouble free miles.

A week ago I went to start the bike and got nothing. I pulled the battery, had it tested at the auto supply store (bad), and replaced it. Put it on the tender, walked away.

Yesterday, loaded up for a two hour away ride. An hour from the destination I started thinking... this is stupid...what if the issue was bigger than the battery? Started watching the vehicle page and monitoring the voltage. It's the 8V to 18V display with what looks like 2V block increments - and I satisfied myself it was holding at 14.2-4ish. Finished the first leg, started/stopped/started/stopped/started/stopped - no problems. Headed back, and 30 minutes in my infotainment screen shuts off, with the stereo. Bike keeps running, no other issues. Tried to use the on/off button to get the screen and stereo back, nothing. Sweat the next 90 minutes, no problem.

Get home and park the bike. Flick the power button for the bike, and the screen comes up normally (thank goodness I'm not replacing a screen!). Look at the voltage, shows 12V or so. Put it on the tender, walk away to fight the problem today.

Today - check battery cables - no problem. Run the RPM up to 4,500 and monitor voltage on the screen - marginal charging increase to 14ish. Shut it down - 12.2ish volts on the screen.

I am going to run to the shop later and get my multimeter to check voltage at the battery, but does anyone have other suggestions for how to diagnose? We are planning a 1,000 mile round tripper in a few weeks so I need to get it sorted out and be confident of no worries of getting stranded. Nearest dealer is 90 miles out, so it's not easy to just let them sort it out.

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance!
Keith
 

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Yes, the wire is good and rock tight on the original factory frame connection.
 

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If your dash shows the battery voltage in acceptable range it means the regulator is OK. Mine was replaced last year when it started charging at over 16 volts. You don't mention it going that high on your bike.

The dealer might be able to find a historic error code to explain why your dash failed that time. Unless I'm reading your original post wrong, it's that one instance that has you concerned about it happening again.

Another thing that comes to mind is that there are some circuit breakers on the bike that are self-resetting. Perhaps there was an overload somewhere and the breaker opened so the dash lost power. After cooling down and feeling better again (whatever makes it reset itself) it turned on. Once again, this is just a guess but perhaps worth a conversation with the service guy who knows the electrical system.

The regulator on these bikes is a bit heavy handed in power management - chase up 'crowbar regulator' for an explanation. If you have a lithium battery the regulator can sometimes cause problems if the battery does not have sufficient internal protection from sudden high load on/off power. You don't say what kind of battery they put in the bike.
 

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I'll ask the obvious question. Are you certain your bike has had the I-18-02 service bulletin flash performed?

If it has not it will cause a draw on your battery if you lock your saddlebags and then move your bike around or bump into it.

I would also reach up in the dash and make certain the plug connector is in tight to the screen if that was your only real issue.
 

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Hello All!

Hey, I was hoping the group might provide some directional assistance for me. I have enjoyed my 17' Roadmaster from new until now, with 16K trouble free miles.

A week ago I went to start the bike and got nothing. I pulled the battery, had it tested at the auto supply store (bad), and replaced it. Put it on the tender, walked away.

Yesterday, loaded up for a two hour away ride. An hour from the destination I started thinking... this is stupid...what if the issue was bigger than the battery? Started watching the vehicle page and monitoring the voltage. It's the 8V to 18V display with what looks like 2V block increments - and I satisfied myself it was holding at 14.2-4ish. Finished the first leg, started/stopped/started/stopped/started/stopped - no problems. Headed back, and 30 minutes in my infotainment screen shuts off, with the stereo. Bike keeps running, no other issues. Tried to use the on/off button to get the screen and stereo back, nothing. Sweat the next 90 minutes, no problem.

Get home and park the bike. Flick the power button for the bike, and the screen comes up normally (thank goodness I'm not replacing a screen!). Look at the voltage, shows 12V or so. Put it on the tender, walk away to fight the problem today.

Today - check battery cables - no problem. Run the RPM up to 4,500 and monitor voltage on the screen - marginal charging increase to 14ish. Shut it down - 12.2ish volts on the screen.

I am going to run to the shop later and get my multimeter to check voltage at the battery, but does anyone have other suggestions for how to diagnose? We are planning a 1,000 mile round tripper in a few weeks so I need to get it sorted out and be confident of no worries of getting stranded. Nearest dealer is 90 miles out, so it's not easy to just let them sort it out.

Thanks in advance for any and
 

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Voltage Regulator. Same situation happened to me. Decided to go to my dealer which is 75 miles away. At the 30 mile point, in LA freeway, in the fast lane I noticed V go from 14, 12, 10...decided to move to the slow lane and then wham! I barely made it to the shoulder. Had to get towed the rest of the way. It was the voltage regulator which was still in warranty. The shop was awesome. Charged up the battery, had a VR in stock. I was in and out in about 2 hours. They even made me a burger and drinks while I waited. Get it checked before your trip or you too will be stranded...but on vacation.
 

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Fully charge the battery then go for a local ride watching the Voltage Meter on your ride command. If you see the Voltage dropping then, assuming the battery isn't fubar, I'd check the regulator comnectors for corrosion and security.... down at the bottom behind the front wheel. If connectors are good condition and secure the I'd change the regulator.
I had a bad one very early on in ownership and the ever excellent Freedom MCs couriers me one. Takes about 10 mins to fit... fiddly but easy.
Repeat the ride out and you should see the Voltage going up as the engine is running ... and crucially staying up above 12v. I think it shows about 13+ volts when charging of the Regulator properly.
Whatever the exact value it's easy to see the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all of the pointers!

I looked at the thread after I did a test ride and talked to the dealership. I put a multimeter on and watched voltage while running through RPM's up to 5,000. Held steady at 14.3 the whole time. Put it back together, ran around for about an hour watching the voltage on the screen, shows just a bar over 14 the whole time. No issue with the screen or anything else.

I'll take each of your advice and check it out. Headed to Arkansas next week, don't want to be stranded.

Incidentally, the Dealer Service department was polite and helped me all they could over the phone. Let me know they are backed up five weeks right now due to everyone buying new toys and breaking them. Better plan accordingly if you need service. Could be just this dealer (Metroeast), but I imagine they are all pretty busy.
 

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That's the same thing I did but that little voice told me to "get it checked out" so I did before my trip. I didn't even make it to the dealer. I would have been upset if I got stuck on the side of a
freeway when it could've been prevented.
 

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Make sure that the battery charger you are using is set for use with an AGM battery which charges at a higher VDC than a lead acid battery.
 

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I had a similar problem where my bike was at 14 v but then dropped to 12 v while riding, then to 8 v and started to run rough. It then went back to 12 v and then 10 v. Made it home, charged the battery then off to the dealer who replaced the voltage regulator, running fine now. Since now the bike is out of warranty I purchased a new one from Dennis Kirk and keep with me since there has been many issues with the regulators. Search: 2017 Indian Roadmaster voltage regulator | Dennis Kirk
 

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Your battery should read 12.6V or higher when fully charged. If not fully charged after a good ride something is wrong and it is probably the regulator
 

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Just to close the loop on this, I ended up replacing the battery only and didn't have any reoccurrence of the display blacking out, etc. I've got a few thousand miles on it since then, so it would appear that was all there was to it. Thanks to everyone for the help given!
 

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Just to close the loop on this, I ended up replacing the battery only and didn't have any reoccurrence of the display blacking out, etc. I've got a few thousand miles on it since then, so it would appear that was all there was to it. Thanks to everyone for the help given!
I just did the same thing. I replaced battery last year so newly viewed gremlins with eletrical system were having me think voltage regulater. I have a 2015 with 56k on it. Regulater was 14.3-14.7 just like the manual says. Replaced battery (24month replacement). Problem gone. Old battery was only at 12.2 when fully charged. Also had it load tested and it only had 170CA instead of 310. I was surprised it was the battery only because I just replaced it.
Battery connections and batteries seem to be 95% of these eletrical gremlins we all witness.
 
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