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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone had a problem with overheating ? I checked the coolant tank and thought it abit low .So I added a bit more.Well apparently it wasn't as low as I thought.The resivoir isn't the easiest thing to read.Anyway ended up with about 2 inches over full/cold mark.I thought it might be ok access would drain off.Cranked her up , let it warm up abit, and it started to overheat.
Anyone have suggestion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks wbarron55 , as far as I know fan did come on , will double check ,will check fuse also.I suppose I should drain off extra coolant from tank.No good way to do that other than unhook in main coolant hose.Was thinking air got into system,should that purge itself?
Anyway, I appreciate the help!
 

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Air should purge itself. Fan not coming on will cause bike to overheat especially while sitting still, no air moving thru the radiator. Check that fan it should come on keeping bike from over heating.
Good luck.
 

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A lot of your problem is two fold, a motorcycle is not designed to sit and idle until it boils over.
It is not a high water capacity system like a car. It is meant to keep a bike under control at cruising speeds and for short periods of time like at a red light or waiting for a train.

Another is what you are calling "overheating", water boils at 212°, but under pressure* it would have to go considerably over the 212° to boil away. 50-50 mix of anti freeze will raise an open system to 223° boiling point.

Adding a pressure cap raises the boiling point much higher.

A normal pressurized system with a 50-50 mix of anti freeze the boiling point is normally around the 270-280° area.


If your fan is not keeping it under control for a short time and if it doesn't get over 240° for a short time you are letting the bike stay at a idle for much to long.

What you think is 'overheating' may be within the OEM temp range to be normal.
*The higher the pressure cap is rated the hotter the water will have to get to boil.

Beating the Heat: Advantage of a High Pressure Radiator Cap
 

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Had it happen to Sopowa. Known issue. Fixed under warranty.

The heat sensor is up near the top of the engine. Any wee air bubble in your coolant will gather up in this spot. Makes the sensor think your engine is hotter than it is.

In Sopowa's case, I could tell she wasn't overheated, just by the feel and smell of her. But the displayed temp climbed up to where her fan went on, then past that to where her engine fault light came on, then past that to where her brain said: "Okay, nitwit, if you won't fix me, I'll shut one jug down so I don't fry". A weep around a coolant hose was sucking minute bits of air in, they'd go up to this bubble, and voila. Adding coolant to her bottle didn't help. Ordinary radiator filling won't help either. Dealer had to buy a special device which could suck fluid thru a closed circuit until it fed that dry space, cause pouring it in won't fill that space. He wasn't happy. I wasn't happy.

Sorry to report this poor design... but I have since been told by others that it is not uncommon even in autos these days to have a cooling system that requires a similar fancy filler device.. Modern designers tend to get carried away by flashy & impractical ideas. You're gonna be hard pressed to convince me someone's not gonna wind up stranded in East Gnawed Pencil New Mexico on a Sunday 400 miles from the nearest whiz bang closed circuit coolant pumperator with a perfectly cool engine cause some half wit stuck the sensor where it thinks his engine's hot when it's not. If I can't fill the goddamn thing via the fill cap then what the hell use is said cap to me?

I don't care what you design, design it for the guy who owns it & get over yourself.
 

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Thanks wbarron55 , as far as I know fan did come on , will double check ,will check fuse also.I suppose I should drain off extra coolant from tank.No good way to do that other than unhook in main coolant hose.Was thinking air got into system,should that purge itself?
Anyway, I appreciate the help!
Don't undo your main coolant hoses for any reason, the system will self correct itself without your interferance.
If you open up the system and your untrained in motorcycle systems you will have many more problems.
A new Scout will run pretty hot until the engine gets some miles on it. Just go with it and ride the thing and don't be messing with the cooling system if it is still in factory warranty.
If you damage the system they will not warranty what you mess up! :D:D:D
Ride it, don't sit around idling the bike to heat it up! :)
 

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Had it happen to Sopowa. Known issue. Fixed under warranty.

The heat sensor is up near the top of the engine. Any wee air bubble in your coolant will gather up in this spot. Makes the sensor think your engine is hotter than it is.

In Sopowa's case, I could tell she wasn't overheated, just by the feel and smell of her. But the displayed temp climbed up to where her fan went on, then past that to where her engine fault light came on, then past that to where her brain said: "Okay, nitwit, if you won't fix me, I'll shut one jug down so I don't fry". A weep around a coolant hose was sucking minute bits of air in, they'd go up to this bubble, and voila. Adding coolant to her bottle didn't help. Ordinary radiator filling won't help either. Dealer had to buy a special device which could suck fluid thru a closed circuit until it fed that dry space, cause pouring it in won't fill that space. He wasn't happy. I wasn't happy.

Sorry to report this poor design... but I have since been told by others that it is not uncommon even in autos these days to have a cooling system that requires a similar fancy filler device.. Modern designers tend to get carried away by flashy & impractical ideas. You're gonna be hard pressed to convince me someone's not gonna wind up stranded in East Gnawed Pencil New Mexico on a Sunday 400 miles from the nearest whiz bang closed circuit coolant pumperator with a perfectly cool engine cause some half wit stuck the sensor where it thinks his engine's hot when it's not. If I can't fill the goddamn thing via the fill cap then what the hell use is said cap to me?

I don't care what you design, design it for the guy who owns it & get over yourself.
"East Gnawed Pencil", that is a great name for a Podunk.
 

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Dealer had to buy a special device which could suck fluid thru a closed circuit until it fed that dry space, cause pouring it in won't fill that space. He wasn't happy. I wasn't happy.
The service manual identifies that device as required. It seems like your dealer should have already had that device...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
"East Gnawed Pencil", that is a great name for a Podunk.
Yeah I hear you and a Big Thanks to all you guy's who responded. I did a 4 mile down and back to the gas up stop and didn't have a problem.Check engine light didn't come on and didn't smell coolant.
 

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The service manual identifies that device as required. It seems like your dealer should have already had that device...
I checked the overflow a couple weeks ago & had the same problem, . . .couldn't see the coolant level. Decided to add a few oz's, . . .made a filler adapter using a short piece of 3/4" heater hose, stuffed a piece of smaller hose into that, and a foot long length of vacuum hose into the smaller hose. The 3/4" just fits into the ID of the coolant tank neck and seals up tight. I picked up a very large hypo syringe from a vet supply (holds 3 oz's) and injected the coolant into the vacuum hose. It's somewhat Mickey-Mouse but doesn't leak and squirts the coolant in without a single drip on the bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I checked the overflow a couple weeks ago & had the same problem, . . .couldn't see the coolant level. Decided to add a few oz's, . . .made a filler adapter using a short piece of 3/4" heater hose, stuffed a piece of smaller hose into that, and a foot long length of vacuum hose into the smaller hose. The 3/4" just fits into the ID of the coolant tank neck and seals up tight. I picked up a very large hypo syringe from a vet supply (holds 3 oz's) and injected the coolant into the vacuum hose. It's somewhat Mickey-Mouse but doesn't leak and squirts the coolant in without a single drip on the bike
Thanks , appreciate the info. , I thought about just picking up a turkey baster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Don't undo your main coolant hoses for any reason, the system will self correct itself without your interferance.
If you open up the system and your untrained in motorcycle systems you will have many more problems.
A new Scout will run pretty hot until the engine gets some miles on it. Just go with it and ride the thing and don't be messing with the cooling system if it is still in factory warranty.
If you damage the system they will not warranty what you mess up! :D:D:D
Ride it, don't sit around idling the bike to heat it up! :)
OK Ronnie , I certify appreciate all your advice - Thanks.
 

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I checked the overflow a couple weeks ago & had the same problem, . . .couldn't see the coolant level. Decided to add a few oz's, . . .made a filler adapter using a short piece of 3/4" heater hose, stuffed a piece of smaller hose into that, and a foot long length of vacuum hose into the smaller hose. The 3/4" just fits into the ID of the coolant tank neck and seals up tight. I picked up a very large hypo syringe from a vet supply (holds 3 oz's) and injected the coolant into the vacuum hose. It's somewhat Mickey-Mouse but doesn't leak and squirts the coolant in without a single drip on the bike
I'm not seeing how this solves the issue of not introducing air when changing coolant? The issue isn't how to add coolant, it's how to get the trapped air out, and for that you need a vacuum device... which is why my dealer used one when they replaced the coolant after replacing the starter.

Given how many starters are dying, draining the coolant, and correctly adding 2 quarts back in afterwards, without leaving air in the system seems like it'll be very common at Indian dealerships. If your dealer doesn't have that, you need another dealer...
 
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