[Charlie Chaplain]

I got the EBC 377X as per their docs for my 2016 model. I was able to get the caliper out and had a hard time with the pins. There are 4 of them, two outer and two in the middle underneath and you just need to take these off. I struggled with the outer ones. 🤦‍♂️. You can press the caliper bracket and the outer pins go lower and you can pull the pads out.

The brake line has a clamp held by a screw about a foot from the caliper. Taking this screw off gives you more play to work on the caliper and you don't need to take the exhaust off.

On the caliper, there is a set screw on the outside for the botton two pins which come off and then you can unscrew the pins. I used a C clamp to push the piston back and I was able to replace the pads. Test ride went well. I could smell something hot near the caliper and the rotor felt pretty hot, is this because of the new pads? I will test again and see if this continues.

I searched a lot of posts and YouTube videos for a 2016 Scout but almost all of them had later models. It looks like the 2015 and 2016 models have a different caliper, pins etc. I'm posting it here as it might help others.

I also replaced the front ones with FA672HH and it was not difficult.

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Did you pull apart those pins, clean and lubricate them, as this is a spot where they could be binding. Also, the piston on the caliper needs to be cleaned, and if it has never been done, flush out the old brake fluid. The combination of these three things can have your pads not retracting from your rotor. This is why they smell hot, and your rotors are hot to the touch.
your caliper pins will slide in and out with little effort, if they have been cleaned and lubricated. I like to use Never Seize on them, and burnish it into the metal, then some hi-temp grease inside those boots on the pins.
‘Charlie

 

[chimmu]

Did you pull apart those pins, clean and lubricate them, as this is a spot where they could be binding. Also, the piston on the caliper needs to be cleaned, and if it has never been done, flush out the old brake fluid. The combination of these three things can have your pads not retracting from your rotor. This is why they smell hot, and your rotors are hot to the touch.
your caliper pins will slide in and out with little effort, if they have been cleaned and lubricated. I like to use Never Seize on them, and burnish it into the metal, then some hi-temp grease inside those boots on the pins.
‘Charlie

Thanks Charlie, Understood. I cleaned them well (pins and piston) but did not lubricate them. This is my first time tryign this and I'll lubricate them. have not ridden the bike after the test ride. The brake fluid was flushed during the 10K mi service, let me go through the process again.

 

[Old Kentucky Guy]

Thanks Charlie, Understood. I cleaned them well (pins and piston) but did not lubricate them. This is my first time tryign this and I'll lubricate them. have not ridden the bike after the test ride. The brake fluid was flushed during the 10K mi service, let me go through the process again.

Hint: Get Speed Bleeder (the brand) bleed screws. Easy and great results for the rear brakes on my 2017 Sixty. Better than when the dealer did a flush.

 

[MattyBoy]

That red paint may be too thick and cause the pins to bind. Check that and maybe remove some of it where the pins travel. Also, gotta lube the moving parts with high-temp grease (I have some kind of fancy ceramic silicone gel stuff "CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake System Grease", $20 at Amazon). And obviously (but always worth saying out loud): don't get the grease on the pads.

Another good idea while you have things apart: coat the back sides of the new pads with "CRC Disc Brake Quiet" (again, $15 at Amazon). Mine were squealing in low braking stops and this did the trick... though it only lasts a year or two.

And no, I'm not afiliated with CRC... just good experience with their products.

 

[MattyBoy]

Hint: Get Speed Bleeder (the brand) bleed screws. Easy and great results for the rear brakes on my 2017 Sixty. Better than when the dealer did a flush.

Be wicked careful not to let air suck into the master cylinder when bleeding the rear brakes... trust me (but search out horror stories on this topic); keep the fluid high in the reservoir.

 

[chimmu]

Hint: Get Speed Bleeder (the brand) bleed screws. Easy and great results for the rear brakes on my 2017 Sixty. Better than when the dealer did a flush.

Thanks!

 

[chimmu]

That red paint may be too thick and cause the pins to bind. Check that and maybe remove some of it where the pins travel. Also, gotta lube the moving parts with high-temp grease (I have some kind of fancy ceramic silicone gel stuff "CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake System Grease", $20 at Amazon). And obviously (but always worth saying out loud): don't get the grease on the pads.

Another good idea while you have things apart: coat the back sides of the new pads with "CRC Disc Brake Quiet" (again, $15 at Amazon). Mine were squealing in low braking stops and this did the trick... though it only lasts a year or two.

And no, I'm not afiliated with CRC... just good experience with their products.

Thanks!
I got this at a local store - Sil-Glyde Silicone Brake Lubricant

 

[MattyBoy]

Thanks!
I got this at a local store - Sil-Glyde Silicone Brake Lubricant

This stuff claims 425 degree f. The CRC stuff I mentioned is good to 3000 degree f. Seems like a no-brainer, especially since you mentioned things were overheating...

 

[chimmu]

This stuff claims 425 degree f. The CRC stuff I mentioned is good to 3000 degree f. Seems like a no-brainer, especially since you mentioned things were overheating...

Agreed... I'll try to get the CRC stuff. Thanks!