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I know the bike calls for 20-40 oil and it says use Indian motor oil, but what other brand could I use. I really dont feel like driving 2 hours and get oil from Indian dealer. Thanks
 

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Indian's statement.
Engine Oil Recommendation

We recommend the use of INDIAN MOTORYCLE Premium Synthetic Blend 20W-40 Engine Oil for your motorcycle. This oil is formulated with synthetic-based oil and premium engine additive which have physical properties that meet API SM and ILSAC GF-4 specifications.
Do not blend oil additives with engine oil.
If oil must be added in an emergency and the recommended oil is not available, choose only a high-quality 20W-40 motorcycle oil. Change back to the recommended oil at the first opportunity.
NOTICE: Use of non-recommended lubricants can result in engine damage. Damage resulting from the use of non recommended lubricants is not covered by warranty.

I will start using Amsoil after my 2nd oil change.
There are many that
API SM and ILSAC GF-4 specifications

Semper Fi,
DRZ

 

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I like Amsoil and have it in all my current vehicles, but not sure if I will be putting it in my 2015 Cheiftain when it arrives. Amsoil currently says that they do not have a recommended oil for our Chieftain. If you do use amsoil then I would probably recommend the 10-40 vs the 20-50 based on what I read on other forums.
 

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Use any premium grade synthetic 20w-40 oil that you want... why do you think Castrol 20w-40 disappeared from the market? It was the same as the Indian oil, so Indian bought it all up and had their label slapped on it. Your bike won't know what brand it is... I guarantee it!!!
 

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I like Amsoil and have it in all my current vehicles, but not sure if I will be putting it in my 2015 Cheiftain when it arrives. Amsoil currently says that they do not have a recommended oil for our Chieftain. If you do use amsoil then I would probably recommend the 10-40 vs the 20-50 based on what I read on other forums.
I tend to go by the specs of API SM and ILSAC GF-4.
If you want a 10w-40 Amsoil...like I do...I would recommend...


10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
API SG, SL/CF, CG-4; JASO MA/MA2; ISO-L-EMA2; API GL-1
Advanced multi-functional formula for both domestic and foreign motorcycles. Recommended for high-performance liquid or air-cooled 4-stroke engines and transmissions and both 4- and 2-stroke motorcycles. Wet-clutch compatible. Not recommended where an API GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil is required.
MCF.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So use this oil which is 10w-40 instead of the 20w-40??? just want to make sure of the weight. im basically a 1/2 down and want to top it off, but when i do my next oil change i will use this also, just want to make sure of the proper weight. thanks
 

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I think it depends on where you live to what blend of oil you should use. In Fl. where i live i would not use 10x40 but instead use 20x50. Farther north then i would think of the lighter blend in my ride.
 

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Speaking of filters.......anyone found a quality filter that's a suitable substitute for the Indian filter yet?
The K&P S4 (| K and P Engineering). Better than any factory or after market oil filter. Ordered mine today. Had them on my RK and they worked great.
 

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I'm not a fan of Amsoil. I just gave away a case of 20W-50 amsoil for free. I will use any other 20W-50 available when I purchase an Indian.
 

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I'm not a fan of Amsoil. I just gave away a case of 20W-50 amsoil for free. I will use any other 20W-50 available when I purchase an Indian.
Can I ask why you are not a fan? I have used it exclusively for years in my HD, Goldwing, and soon my Indian and am just wondering why?

Semper Fi,
DrZ
 
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Today I shopped for Bike oil at the Farm and Barn. Amsoil 10-w40 was $12.75 per Qt. Mobil 1 was $10.00 Qt. did not see any 20-w40 only 20-w50 or 10-w40 I wonder if slightly heavier would help lifter noise. Never tried Amsoil but used Mobil 1 in my cars for years. Is there any difference? Got 4000 miles now and want to change oil.
 

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I just did a ton of research yesterday looking for oil. To get the SM rating with Mobil 1 you must buy the Mobil 1 Racing 4T. The Mobile 1 V Twin does not have an SM rating. I also checked Amsoil and didn't see an SM rating on the ones I checked. Same with a number of other motorcycle oils. Tons of other S? but no SM
 

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I just got done researching motorcycle oil. Now my head hurts. All the different letters like a enigma code. Solartj is right. Mobil 1 Racing or the only other synthetic oil with API-SM is Venom oil. I don't know who sells it. Made in Illinois. If you use non API-SM Your motor won't know the difference. But your clutch will. Has to do with zinc and phosphorus levels. I will stick with Indian oil for now.
 

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I've been working in the petroleum industry for over 35 years and motor oil discussions are always near and dear to everybody's pocket. Over the years, this is some of what I have learned regarding motor oil. 1st, car oils are not the same as motorcycle oils, (especially air cooled engines), like Indian, Harley and the like. When a manufacturer says to use a certain grade ie; 20w50, 20w40 and so on, you must remember, these companies have a room of engineers which disect their engines to the micron. There's bearing wear, ring wear and all different types of metal, chromium, magnesium, brass and so on. There's metal fatigue which goes on in an engine. Heat is the biggest culprit to this wear. Then there's Synthetics, full synthetic and para synthetics. Both have great qualities reducing heat which causes wear. One big issue is additive packages. If your engine, tranny and clutch oils all use the same fluid, Don't use any oil, with the Moly additive. This additive is does not work well with clutches. In time they will start to slip. In closing, when you see a dealer carrying the manufacturers oil for that bike, USE IT!. Like I said, that room of engineers they have, know exactly what additives they want in their oil to give that engine so it runs the most optimum and gives it the best protection it needs. When you spend 20,000 + for a bike why not use the best oil for it. Don't ever think that a 20W40 in a walmart is the same as a manufacturers labeled oil, it's not...
 

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I've been working in the petroleum industry for over 35 years and motor oil discussions are always near and dear to everybody's pocket. Over the years, this is some of what I have learned regarding motor oil. 1st, car oils are not the same as motorcycle oils, (especially air cooled engines), like Indian, Harley and the like. When a manufacturer says to use a certain grade ie; 20w50, 20w40 and so on, you must remember, these companies have a room of engineers which disect their engines to the micron. There's bearing wear, ring wear and all different types of metal, chromium, magnesium, brass and so on. There's metal fatigue which goes on in an engine. Heat is the biggest culprit to this wear. Then there's Synthetics, full synthetic and para synthetics. Both have great qualities reducing heat which causes wear. One big issue is additive packages. If your engine, tranny and clutch oils all use the same fluid, Don't use any oil, with the Moly additive. This additive is does not work well with clutches. In time they will start to slip. In closing, when you see a dealer carrying the manufacturers oil for that bike, USE IT!. Like I said, that room of engineers they have, know exactly what additives they want in their oil to give that engine so it runs the most optimum and gives it the best protection it needs. When you spend 20,000 + for a bike why not use the best oil for it. Don't ever think that a 20W40 in a walmart is the same as a manufacturers labeled oil, it's not...
I agree. Buy enough oil for a few changes and use the manufacturer's oil. Using the wrong weight or grade is a bad idea. If you want to pick different oil, use Wesson. You might get a date with Florence Henderson.
 

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More oil opinions:

The Truth About Motorcycle Oils

bobistheoilguy.com

I am running Rotella 15-40 in my Vulcan 1600. All analyses come back great except that a trace of coolant shows up, which it also did when I was running the Kawasaki oil.
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I put 100,000 miles on my Kawasaki Vulcan 1600. In my opinion one of the most dependable motorcycles on earth. Mine were "never" taken back to the dealers or shops after I bought them, all work done by me. Have been a member of the Vulcan list on Delphi since '99 with my first Indian look alike, the Kawasaki 1500 Drifter. On both bikes I bought new and put in Shell Rotella T3 after a "vigorous" break in with Dinosaur oil. Ran oil tests at 40K on the 1600. On that WATER COOLED engine, the oil tests were fine. No clutch slippage, and after tearing the Vulcan 1600 down 3 times for the Water pump replacement Noticed no obvious pitting on pistons, pins or valve train. (forgot a few steps my fault - and found you do NOT have to split the cases to get the water pump out - and - you will always have a trace of cooling fluid in your oil because of it's design. Never seem to hurt a bit.) Changed oil every 5,000 miles and ran the same car oil filter (extended size) used by the Mazda Miata, Gold Wings and several other vehicles. Walmart Supertech ST7317, made by Champion (they also made Bosch 3300).
I run the same filter on my 1946 Indian, with 20-50 oils. Or just straight 50 wt when it is hot. The '46 does not leak oil but with an 88 cubic inch stroker flathead engine, it uses a lot. Old Indians did not have oil filters. Period. We adapted one to it. Not too worried about oil debris it doesn't stay in the motorcycle that long ;-) Don't stand behind the tailpipe on start up.
After some more research on my new '14 Vintage I will consider Rotella for it too, But may go to a higher end oil filter like the K&R. I am not a fool or brand loyal, This is my 50th year riding motorcycles and my 40th bike. But I want to know what other oils are safe in the new Indian if I can't get the dealers brand. Cost is not that important, availability is, especially here in Hawaii. And getting oil shipped here is a nightmare. The Indian dealership here is on a very high profit margin and sells Suzuki's. Good to have alternatives.
 

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Sounds like solid advice.. I'm one of the brainwashed masses that just sticks with the mothership brand. I use to justify the extra price by doing my own changes. Now I'm embarrassed to admit how many times I've had the dealer do the service for me. If my grandfather were still alive he'd smack me in the back of the head. No doubt that I'd probably deserve it :confused:
 
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