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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A question for those who have installed Rox Risers on their Chieftain.
I am having work done at the dealer that required removal and replacement of the front fairing (at no cost to me). As part of the process, I am having the technician install my Rox Risers and I've agreed to pay labor for the extra time required for a technician to install the Rox Risers.
My question:
About how much time should the installation of just the Rox Risers required, given that the front fairing has been removed ?
Personally, I am guessing 1 or 2 hours for just the Rox Risers.
Thoughts and opinions welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
 

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The fine-tuning is the important part. You will probably have to spend a little time at the dealer before they tighten the risers down.
 

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Been working on mine for two evenings now. Maybe tomorrow evening I can wrap it up. @splitt I don't know how you did it in 2 hours!! I finally caved, pulled the seat and inched the tank back a few inches to re-install the bars. Once in, and while was buttoning up the controls and re-installing the tank, I noticed the Rox Risers do actually contact the tank on hard-lock turns. Not much, but they just kiss it enough to see it move. For the most part, it appears they have plenty of room, but looks can be deceiving.
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Above, checking clearance. It appears to be plenty of room.
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Above, they just kiss the tank on hard lock turn. And, after I shaved off some of the corner of the riser before installing it.
I also, changed out the two forward 6mm bolts to button-head bolts instead of the Allen head bolts sent with the package. I gained a few more millimetres of clearance.
 

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I just swapped my KST bars back to my stock bars with Rox Risers. Took 3 hours from start to finish, including running the wires. The trick to getting clearance is to tighten the stock risers enough to hold the Rox Risers in place, but still be able to move them. Then, tighten the Rox Risers equally to the same spec. Position the bars where you want them, then give the bottom RR bolts an extra uggadugga. This should hold the bars at the same angle when you pull the RR down. After pulling them down, torque down the top and bottom RR bolts. Rotate the bars (and RR) all the way up, and torque down the stock riser bolts.

If you have tightened the RRs equally, you should now have enough clearance to tuck the top of the RRs up behind the head unit, and the bottom should clear the console.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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I think I pretty much followed your path.
Snugged all the bolts. Could NOT get the risers and handlebars worked into place. Pulled back the gas tank. Got everything in place, snugged the triple tree bolts, aligned the RR as high as possible under the dash bracket. Marked everything. Pulled everything out. Checked alignment. Torqued the front bolts on the factory risers, torqued the front bolts on the RR. Verified I could still make some adjustments. Put the whole section back into position on the triple tree. Added triple tree bolts and torqued same. Pushed RR as far forward as possible and still get to rear bolts on RR caps. Torqued those. Pushed fuel tank forward into position. Torqued lower bolts on factory risers.

The RR only make contact when hard over. And, I shaved the corners of them too. Apparently, not enough.

Once I get the wiring harness back in place, I will drop it off the jack and check position on the bars. If I have any adjustment, I may try to push the RR forward.
 
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