Spark plugs are a simple swap. A universal spark plug socket makes short work of the job.
Spray a little WD40 into the plug wells and apply a small amount of ant-seize on the threads of the new plugs. And I’m a big fan of Iridium spark plugs.

 

Use a rubber vac tube to push it over the top nipple for pulling out the plug.
Also to put in the new one and turn in the easy revs to find threads, then you can 'unplug' the tube and go on with fastening.

Some guys with 60.000 have their first belts still in use.

This fork oil thing... it is not about leaks, that will prove this oil change. The reason is aging, dirt and moisture penetration.
Necessary in principle, but whether this has to be at 30,000 is probably due to perhaps noticeable deficits in the front suspension and the general driving conditions.
Some guys wrech them out and get the fork tubes to a service shop, which is easier then doing the whole work and save a lot of money.

 

A good universal joint magnetic spark plug socket is necessary. Especially for the front. I place the socket in first then connect the ratchet. They come right out. If you go with Iridium plugs (TS111 .040 gap). (The factory gap is .034) light coat of anti-seize on the threads, avoid getting any on the bottom 3 or 4 threads. To install put the plug in the socket, without the ratchet, gently insert it in the cylinder and hand tighten. (So you can feel the plug is threading properly, not cross threading.) Then use a torque wrench and tighten to specs. (13 ft-lbs, a little under is fine, do not over tighten). I coat the inside of the boot with some dielectric grease reconnect the plug wires and your good to go…

Here’s a link to the 2017 Service manual…

2017 Inidan Full-size Service Manual.pdf

drive.google.com

 

As a non-mechanic, You really need to use the torque wrench.

 

Before loosening the plug.
Remove the wire boot and blast compressed air at the base of plug.
Otherwise some of that silt that gets in there could end up dropping into plug hole when removed.

 

Thanks, guys, I really appreciate all the advice. I have a few follow up questions please:

1. Do spark plug sockets have something on the inside of them that grips the spark plug? Or is that why I should get a magnetic spark plug socket?
2. 3" extension for the front and 6" extension for the back
3. How do I select the proper spark plugs?
4. Is there a particular brand and part number that's recommended?
5. Do they come pre-gapped?

Thanks, guys, I greatly appreciate the info. I like learning more about the bike and saving $ doing some things myself.

 

This is a 5/8 magnetic plug socket I got from AutoZone…

Front jug…

Rear Jug … has more room … I use just the one socket for both…

These are the iridium plugs (NGK brand) … I don’t remember if they are pre-gapped … the gap should be .040 for a TS111.

 

At 30k I would bite the bullet and change fork fluid. It's all about ride quality and having a bike that performs like it should. The manual says 15k, which is way too short. I've spoken to a couple dealers I trust and they said 25k is fine.

Belt is fine, just keep checking its condition. You can handle the rest. BTW, I have a 2020 service manual for sale. $40 plus shipping. Will cover all the basics for you along with proper torque values. Pm if interested. Thanks and good luck.

 

These plugs shown below are direct replacements and come pregapped.

Ngk 4339 Pk 3 Spark Plugs Dcpr8E Amazon.com: Ngk 4339 Pk 3 Spark Plugs Dcpr8E : Automotive

Most spark plug Sockets have a rubber gasket that grips the plug.

 

These plugs shown below are direct replacements and come pregapped.

Ngk 4339 Pk 3 Spark Plugs Dcpr8E Amazon.com: Ngk 4339 Pk 3 Spark Plugs Dcpr8E : Automotive

Most spark plug Sockets have a rubber gasket that grips the plug.

thank you

 

You can pick up a spark plug gap gauge for less than $5 at any major auto parts store. They're small and barely take up any room in your toolbox. That way you'll have one for next time.

 

I'm due for a 30K service on my 16 SF and got sticker shock (between $900 and $1,200, dealership depending) when calling my two nearest dealerships. A good friend showed me how to change the oil and filter so did that two weeks ago. The fork oil service seems like makework for the dealership to cash in and they're not leaking. Also, the 30K also calls for a drive belt replacement but both dealerships said they rarely ever change them at 30K. So, if I take off the drive belt replacement and I'm not gonna do the fork oil/seals replacements, the biggest issue left on the list is replacing the spark plugs. And regarding the brakes, I had the bike inspected 4 months ago and they were fine and told should last through the riding season.

Do you guys replace your own? Is it a difficult thing to do? I'm not a mechanic but have average mechanical skills. Any tips or tricks?

Replacing the drive belt at 30k miles is just another way for the dealer to pick your pocket. A properly maintained belt should last at least 100k miles if it hasn't been abused.
For the plugs just get the proper size socket with the rubber grip inside that will hold the plugs in the socket when removed and the correct length extension and you're golden.

 

Thank you

 

I'm due for a 30K service on my 16 SF and got sticker shock (between $900 and $1,200, dealership depending) when calling my two nearest dealerships. A good friend showed me how to change the oil and filter so did that two weeks ago. The fork oil service seems like makework for the dealership to cash in and they're not leaking. Also, the 30K also calls for a drive belt replacement but both dealerships said they rarely ever change them at 30K. So, if I take off the drive belt replacement and I'm not gonna do the fork oil/seals replacements, the biggest issue left on the list is replacing the spark plugs. And regarding the brakes, I had the bike inspected 4 months ago and they were fine and told should last through the riding season.

Do you guys replace your own? Is it a difficult thing to do? I'm not a mechanic but have average mechanical skills. Any tips or tricks?

Funny you should mention spark plugs. I recently started wondering about mine. Although they are good for many miles I saw @ post from a rider that said he replaces his spark plugs every spring when he changes his oil. I already change my own oil and for a few bucks more I do my plugs also.

 

I don't think you can gap iridium plugs without damaging them

 

Don’t Use em!

 

If that is sarcasm I will have to give you a big

HISS!

 

Not meant to be. If you change your plugs regularly you don’t nee$ em

 

I understand
I ride a 2020 scout bobber sixty so I will be changing my own

 

I have a 2015 RM and changed my own fork oil at 30k. The oil looked ok but as you get to the bottom oil it had a metal color. I used a 50% indian fork oil and 50% screaming eagle oil...rides a whole lot smoother. I checked my belt for cracks or anything else and it looked good. Replaced plugs with the iridium ones and new elite 4 tires and sixity front brake pads...plus replaced all rear bearings...going on a trip across America in a few days.

 

I just saw the NGK 6546 iridium plugs are discontinued… this is the replacement… NGK 97181 … @JimmyOutlaw … yes you can gap iridium plugs, you just have to be careful not to damage the center electrode … The center electrode is thin and coated in iridium the ground electrode is platinum coated… just FYI

 

Will those plugs fit the 2020 scout bobber sixty?

 

No, the stock plugs in the Scout are different from a TS111 … you would have to cross reference your stock plugs to find the right ones …

Here’s a thread…

Scout spark plugs NGK MR7F to Iridium CR9EIX

Standard plug MR7F in the Scout with a 30k change seems pretty long interval. Anyone switched to the Iridium equivelant CR9EIX ? I have always liked the Iridium plugs, seemed to start easier and idle better in bikes I have owned. Thanks for any feedback.

www.indianmotorcycles.net