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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my father-in-law's Indian Scout in my garage for about a year, so I figured it's due for an oil change based on time rather than the 200 miles I've put on it.

Went for a short (long-way home) ride Saturday to the local Harley dealer (early 2000s Scouts use an S&S engine) to get oil & filter. Svc manual calls for 3 qts with a new filter, so we got 4, to have an extra on hand.

Got some down time on Sunday & decided to knock out the oil change, how hard could it be? I like to thin k I'm pretty automotive DIY competent.

Getting the bike onto the jack was the first difficult task. Stood vertically, the Scout has just minimal clearance to get the jack under it. Luckily, the jack has d-rings on all 4 corners, so I was able to strap it down to keep it from tipping.
Start lifting the bike & only the rear is coming up. Pulled the jack & put the bike on 2x6s to get a bit of extra clearance & put a 2x4 on the front leg of the jack. This got it into a more balanced & favorable position.

To start, removing the Herculean tight drain plug from the engine, which only drains a small amount of the total oil volume.

Then, while at the front, remove the oil filter, which only has about enough room to get 3 fingers on it. Make a run to WalMart & get a filter wrench (should've gotten the strap style, rather than the 3-finger adjustable) & manage to get the filter off & drip oil onto the frame rails under it.

Overall, these 2 parts were simple in comparison to draining the oil tank.

The oil tank (under the seat) has a drain hose connected to a frame plug. all of this is inside the frame behind the exhaust, in a space about big enough for 2 fingers.
Loosen a hose clamp & use a long flat blade screwdriver to slip the drain hose off the frame plug (luckily I thought ahead & put a 'ramp' under the bike to direct the draining oil into the drain pan).
Getting the hose back onto the frame plug was a pain, as you don't really have any easy access to maneuver it. There's a 'fender' in the way from the rear & not enough space to reach through from the left side. So you're stuck working with 2 fingers & a screwdriver.

Long-term (maybe next oil change) I'm thinking about re-routing & extending the drain hose with something like a Fumoto valve on it, to make this part much easier.

Got all the draining parts done & buttoned up. Service manual calls for 3 quarts of oil, with a new filter.
Add oil, put the empty quarts on the shelf with my used oil to dispose, come back to a puddle under the bike. Figured I'd not tightened the drain hose well enough, then saw the oil overflowing from the oil tank :eek:
Got it all buttoned up & started, let it idle a few minutes & checked the oil. All happy on the dipstick.

A 2nd look at the svc manual shows specs for a Chief, not a Scout. Not sure if it uses a larger oil tank. Now I know for next time to add 2 qts, crank it to get oil into the engine & filter, then slowly add some of the 3rd.

Total time for the whole ordeal was probably 2.5 hours, including the trip to WalMart & cleaning up the tools/jack/floor of oil. Could probably knock that time down considerably next time, as I have a better idea what I'm doing.
By comparison, my Mercedes takes right around an hour. This includes 4 jack stands (rotate tires as well), removing the 2 underbody floor panels, remove engine cover & intake hose, replace cartridge oil filter & o-rings, drain/fill oil & replace removed parts.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anyone done a drain hose re-route? Going to start looking around for a viable option over the difficult to access frame plug.
Considering something like a Fumoto valve, either directly at the oil tank, or secured to the lower frame rail on an extended drain hose.
 

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Remove 2x4 from the front of Jack, move Jack forward. Just clear the shocks.i believe the shocks are a little lower than the frame.. I'd be careful removing engine case plug , possibly strip it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now that I know that isn't required for an oil change, I won't be pulling it in the future.
Not sure how much further forward I could move the jack, it's not far off from the shock body in that photo, could maybe get another inch or so.
 

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I had some of the same problem's on my Scout.That tank drain is STUPID ! Try working on it with hot oil. I put a longer hose on tank with a shouldered bolt and clamp for a plug and ran it forward along frame and zip tied it (next time I'll just cut the tie's and since the hose is longer I can direct it where I want oil to drain.The filter is pretty messy too,not much you can do,I cut up a milk jug to try and redirect oil over to drainpan and still had a mess although LESS MESS.On my jack (Chraftsman) I moved the pads to the outside of the arms to widen the support and it works good on my Dyna too,you have to get 4 longer hardened bolts to move the pads out.One more thing I changed all those 18+ year oil hoses that were getting pretty hard especially where they run behind the rear exhaust pipe.Better luck next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Glad I'm not the only one.
I did it on Sunday, since we took a ride for oil/filter on Saturday. Not a chance I'd attempt it with a hot engine/exhaust.

Been looking at Fumoto valves & need to take some measurements to figure out the best way to make that work. I'll probably run the hose in pretty much the same spot, but with the Fumoto, no more fooling around with the inaccessible frame plug. Just need to see if the fitting on the oil tank is threaded in, or welded on. If the former, the Fumoto could be threaded into the oil tank & easily accessible, otherwise, I'd put it in the end of the drain hose & mount it to the lower framerail.
 

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I have always done my oil change with the bike on the ground never needed the stand for it. Also the Mojave scouts were the nicest color imho.


Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I suppose the stand wasn't 'needed' but it was nice not having to be on the ground to do the work.

I am quite find of the color as well.
 
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