Great info RACNRAY. Thank you for the education. For the rest of you, since we’ve debated oil types into oblivion, can we now please debate air versus nitrogen in our tires?
THANX GUYS for the compliments, if my knowledge helps just one person that makes my day!!!Someone who works in the industry, has participated in the race side, and who dynos engines is not a so-called industry professional. They are an industry professional. Am I missing something about Brother Ray? I guess I missed the part where he was really just a stoplight revving fool who liked to work on bikes under a shade tree and dynoed bikes using only the sounds he hears with his ears.
If you don't know anything about spark plugs, just say so.....SORRY...SO very much not true. I dn't know what exactly you mean by "less conductive", as that phrase can relate to electrical and/or thermal conductivity. And WHAT is meant by "regular copper plugs" as there are differences even in "copper plugs". So let me address these...
FIRST....spark plugs are of 2 main types, resistor and non-resistor. Non resistor plugs are not used much anymore, as any and all types of electronics (radios, fuel injection systems, etc) are susceptible to the RFI (radio frequency interference) that is generated by the ignition system, so the more common resistor plugs have internal resistance that have the same affect as RFI suppressor plug wires and resister plug caps found on many skoots. So there is pretty much no such thing as "regular copper plugs". The proper term for "copper plugs" is COPPER CORE as the protruding center electrode is of a ferrous material and some portion of the internal conductive material is copper, and copper core plugs are mostly non-resistor. The stock TS111 plugs are of the resistor type so are NOT copper core plugs.
CONDUCTIVITY...ELECTRICAL...long time ago I took some resistance measurements from some plugs, and here is what I found...
NON RESISITOR COPPER CORE...........about 90 ohms.
RESISTOR COPPER CORE(?)..................about 4500 ohms.
RESISTOR IRIDIUM...............................about 4300 ohms
NOTE....the 200 ohms difference between the 2 resistor plugs is negligible.
The MINIMUM for good RFI suppression is 4000 ohms with 10,000 ohms being what I found at times. So try to put in some non-resistor plugs in our skoots and see if any of the electronics will protest, and if there is any performance improvement.
CONDUCTIVITY......THERMAL...plug are rated with a heat range index which pertains to the plugs ability to transfer the heat from the center electrode and nose to the base of the plug and into the head. Numbers are used to show the heat range of the plug. With Jap plugs the higher the nmbr the "colder" the plug, i.e. the center electrode and nose, will operate at a lower temperature as compared to a "hotter plug, like a 9 compared to an 8. If one looks down into plugs with different heat ranges there is an obvious difference in the length of the center "nose", a colder plug's nose will be shorter than a hotter plug, this shortens the path heat has to travel to get to the base of the plug and into the head. Center electrode material DOES NOT affect
heat range so iridiums DO NOT tend to "overheat"!
The main advantage in iridium tipped plugs is how well that electrode stands up to heat and erosion. As long as the engine is healthy and the a/f ration is proper iridium tipped plugs may last up to 100,000 miles.
As a 42+ year professional m/c technician I am aware of hundreds of "old wives tails" and erroneous knowledge, so to educate from factual experience aids me in pointing out false information.
I hope this has been educational. Now, dn't get me started on ground electrode design, which brings into the "gimmicks' used by some manufactures!
RACNRAY
Go for hydrogen - if you get into a crash you go out with a bang not a whimper...Great info RACNRAY. Thank you for the education. For the rest of you, since we’ve debated oil types into oblivion, can we now please debate air versus nitrogen in our tires?
By the way, just which iridium plugs do you recommend for the 111 ?SORRY...SO very much not true. I dn't know what exactly you mean by "less conductive", as that phrase can relate to electrical and/or thermal conductivity. And WHAT is meant by "regular copper plugs" as there are differences even in "copper plugs". So let me address these...
FIRST....spark plugs are of 2 main types, resistor and non-resistor. Non resistor plugs are not used much anymore, as any and all types of electronics (radios, fuel injection systems, etc) are susceptible to the RFI (radio frequency interference) that is generated by the ignition system, so the more common resistor plugs have internal resistance that have the same affect as RFI suppressor plug wires and resister plug caps found on many skoots. So there is pretty much no such thing as "regular copper plugs". The proper term for "copper plugs" is COPPER CORE as the protruding center electrode is of a ferrous material and some portion of the internal conductive material is copper, and copper core plugs are mostly non-resistor. The stock TS111 plugs are of the resistor type so are NOT copper core plugs.
CONDUCTIVITY...ELECTRICAL...long time ago I took some resistance measurements from some plugs, and here is what I found...
NON RESISITOR COPPER CORE...........about 90 ohms.
RESISTOR COPPER CORE(?)..................about 4500 ohms.
RESISTOR IRIDIUM...............................about 4300 ohms
NOTE....the 200 ohms difference between the 2 resistor plugs is negligible.
The MINIMUM for good RFI suppression is 4000 ohms with 10,000 ohms being what I found at times. So try to put in some non-resistor plugs in our skoots and see if any of the electronics will protest, and if there is any performance improvement.
CONDUCTIVITY......THERMAL...plug are rated with a heat range index which pertains to the plugs ability to transfer the heat from the center electrode and nose to the base of the plug and into the head. Numbers are used to show the heat range of the plug. With Jap plugs the higher the nmbr the "colder" the plug, i.e. the center electrode and nose, will operate at a lower temperature as compared to a "hotter plug, like a 9 compared to an 8. If one looks down into plugs with different heat ranges there is an obvious difference in the length of the center "nose", a colder plug's nose will be shorter than a hotter plug, this shortens the path heat has to travel to get to the base of the plug and into the head. Center electrode material DOES NOT affect
heat range so iridiums DO NOT tend to "overheat"!
The main advantage in iridium tipped plugs is how well that electrode stands up to heat and erosion. As long as the engine is healthy and the a/f ration is proper iridium tipped plugs may last up to 100,000 miles.
As a 42+ year professional m/c technician I am aware of hundreds of "old wives tails" and erroneous knowledge, so to educate from factual experience aids me in pointing out false information.
I hope this has been educational. Now, dn't get me started on ground electrode design, which brings into the "gimmicks' used by some manufactures!
RACNRAY
Just wanted to make sure they were the correct ones. ThxThe o p has them pictured in the first post on this thread
I agree. RACNRAY has been around the block a few times. I've read his writings on this plus another site that I frequent and I have much respect for his research and opinions. Wouldn't know the guy if I tripped over him but spend enough time on interweb sites and you're able to separate the real deals from the empty barrels. There's RRay plus a very few others.Not ignorance. Just the collective zeitgeist of its members. Some I tend to believe more than others. RACNRAY has been a wealth of info on a wide range of ideas, but I have not followed through with any of his findings. Me, I like my stock bike; quiet and fuel efficient. But I would like to squeak a bit more power out of her. I was thinking maybe a PVCX and a stage 2 cam for a unique signature. I know, I can get more power by installing less restrictive items but I said I like it quiet. And I know it can be done because after reading these pages for 3 years almost everything has been tried.
Not ignorance. Just the collective zeitgeist of its members. Some I tend to believe more than others. RACNRAY has been a wealth of info on a wide range of ideas, but I have not followed through with any of his findings. Me, I like my stock bike; quiet and fuel efficient. But I would like to squeak a bit more power out of her. I was thinking maybe a PVCX and a stage 2 cam for a unique signature. I know, I can get more power by installing less restrictive items but I said I like it quiet. And I know it can be done because after reading these pages for 3 years almost everything has been tried.
WOW...THANX GUYS...I am humbled. Truth is there is NOTHING wrong with the stock plugs in our TS111's, they do their basic job just fine.I agree. RACNRAY has been around the block a few times. I've read his writings on this plus another site that I frequent and I have much respect for his research and opinions. Wouldn't know the guy if I tripped over him but spend enough time on interweb sites and you're able to separate the real deals from the empty barrels. There's RRay plus a very few others.