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Someone who works in the industry, has participated in the race side, and who dynos engines is not a so-called industry professional. They are an industry professional. Am I missing something about Brother Ray? I guess I missed the part where he was really just a stoplight revving fool who liked to work on bikes under a shade tree and dynoed bikes using only the sounds he hears with his ears.
 
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Great info RACNRAY. Thank you for the education. For the rest of you, since we’ve debated oil types into oblivion, can we now please debate air versus nitrogen in our tires?
Someone who works in the industry, has participated in the race side, and who dynos engines is not a so-called industry professional. They are an industry professional. Am I missing something about Brother Ray? I guess I missed the part where he was really just a stoplight revving fool who liked to work on bikes under a shade tree and dynoed bikes using only the sounds he hears with his ears.
THANX GUYS for the compliments, if my knowledge helps just one person that makes my day!!!

RACNRAY
 
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SORRY...SO very much not true. I dn't know what exactly you mean by "less conductive", as that phrase can relate to electrical and/or thermal conductivity. And WHAT is meant by "regular copper plugs" as there are differences even in "copper plugs". So let me address these...

FIRST....spark plugs are of 2 main types, resistor and non-resistor. Non resistor plugs are not used much anymore, as any and all types of electronics (radios, fuel injection systems, etc) are susceptible to the RFI (radio frequency interference) that is generated by the ignition system, so the more common resistor plugs have internal resistance that have the same affect as RFI suppressor plug wires and resister plug caps found on many skoots. So there is pretty much no such thing as "regular copper plugs". The proper term for "copper plugs" is COPPER CORE as the protruding center electrode is of a ferrous material and some portion of the internal conductive material is copper, and copper core plugs are mostly non-resistor. The stock TS111 plugs are of the resistor type so are NOT copper core plugs.

CONDUCTIVITY...ELECTRICAL...long time ago I took some resistance measurements from some plugs, and here is what I found...

NON RESISITOR COPPER CORE...........about 90 ohms.
RESISTOR COPPER CORE(?)..................about 4500 ohms.
RESISTOR IRIDIUM...............................about 4300 ohms
NOTE....the 200 ohms difference between the 2 resistor plugs is negligible.

The MINIMUM for good RFI suppression is 4000 ohms with 10,000 ohms being what I found at times. So try to put in some non-resistor plugs in our skoots and see if any of the electronics will protest, and if there is any performance improvement.

CONDUCTIVITY......THERMAL...plug are rated with a heat range index which pertains to the plugs ability to transfer the heat from the center electrode and nose to the base of the plug and into the head. Numbers are used to show the heat range of the plug. With Jap plugs the higher the nmbr the "colder" the plug, i.e. the center electrode and nose, will operate at a lower temperature as compared to a "hotter plug, like a 9 compared to an 8. If one looks down into plugs with different heat ranges there is an obvious difference in the length of the center "nose", a colder plug's nose will be shorter than a hotter plug, this shortens the path heat has to travel to get to the base of the plug and into the head. Center electrode material DOES NOT affect
heat range so iridiums DO NOT tend to "overheat"!

The main advantage in iridium tipped plugs is how well that electrode stands up to heat and erosion. As long as the engine is healthy and the a/f ration is proper iridium tipped plugs may last up to 100,000 miles.

As a 42+ year professional m/c technician I am aware of hundreds of "old wives tails" and erroneous knowledge, so to educate from factual experience aids me in pointing out false information.

I hope this has been educational. Now, dn't get me started on ground electrode design, which brings into the "gimmicks' used by some manufactures!

RACNRAY
If you don't know anything about spark plugs, just say so.....




:)
 
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If you just run regular old OEM DCPR8E plugs you can avoid all problems and snake oil solutions. Just saying. You’re not going to gain anything significant. You are going to spend $6 more bucks.
 
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If you run the Iridium equivalent to the stock plugs then you will experience the well-documented increase in miles per gallon, throttle response an engine smoothness. And at the same time have a set of plugs that will last the life of the bike just about. These are not a snake oil solution as the Iridium tip is only a small portion of what makes these plugs better.
RACNRAY
 
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God, I would like to get you all in a bar, buy a couple of rounds and see where this conversation goes!
But seriously, I have been wondering about this lately since I'm snowbound for now. Changing over to Iridium plugs seems like a good choice for longevity reasons alone. I just inspected the plugs in my GMC and after 40,000 mi. the gap was off by only 3 thousands. Plugs looked great. And you are correct in being very careful in gapping since I broke a tip off re-adjusting it.
 
I don’t see a need for super duper neato plugs unless you’re trying to get some sort of record at the strip. To each his own however. I do look forward to finding iridium plugs in customers bikes soon so I can see what’s happening.
 
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SORRY...SO very much not true. I dn't know what exactly you mean by "less conductive", as that phrase can relate to electrical and/or thermal conductivity. And WHAT is meant by "regular copper plugs" as there are differences even in "copper plugs". So let me address these...

FIRST....spark plugs are of 2 main types, resistor and non-resistor. Non resistor plugs are not used much anymore, as any and all types of electronics (radios, fuel injection systems, etc) are susceptible to the RFI (radio frequency interference) that is generated by the ignition system, so the more common resistor plugs have internal resistance that have the same affect as RFI suppressor plug wires and resister plug caps found on many skoots. So there is pretty much no such thing as "regular copper plugs". The proper term for "copper plugs" is COPPER CORE as the protruding center electrode is of a ferrous material and some portion of the internal conductive material is copper, and copper core plugs are mostly non-resistor. The stock TS111 plugs are of the resistor type so are NOT copper core plugs.

CONDUCTIVITY...ELECTRICAL...long time ago I took some resistance measurements from some plugs, and here is what I found...

NON RESISITOR COPPER CORE...........about 90 ohms.
RESISTOR COPPER CORE(?)..................about 4500 ohms.
RESISTOR IRIDIUM...............................about 4300 ohms
NOTE....the 200 ohms difference between the 2 resistor plugs is negligible.

The MINIMUM for good RFI suppression is 4000 ohms with 10,000 ohms being what I found at times. So try to put in some non-resistor plugs in our skoots and see if any of the electronics will protest, and if there is any performance improvement.

CONDUCTIVITY......THERMAL...plug are rated with a heat range index which pertains to the plugs ability to transfer the heat from the center electrode and nose to the base of the plug and into the head. Numbers are used to show the heat range of the plug. With Jap plugs the higher the nmbr the "colder" the plug, i.e. the center electrode and nose, will operate at a lower temperature as compared to a "hotter plug, like a 9 compared to an 8. If one looks down into plugs with different heat ranges there is an obvious difference in the length of the center "nose", a colder plug's nose will be shorter than a hotter plug, this shortens the path heat has to travel to get to the base of the plug and into the head. Center electrode material DOES NOT affect
heat range so iridiums DO NOT tend to "overheat"!

The main advantage in iridium tipped plugs is how well that electrode stands up to heat and erosion. As long as the engine is healthy and the a/f ration is proper iridium tipped plugs may last up to 100,000 miles.

As a 42+ year professional m/c technician I am aware of hundreds of "old wives tails" and erroneous knowledge, so to educate from factual experience aids me in pointing out false information.

I hope this has been educational. Now, dn't get me started on ground electrode design, which brings into the "gimmicks' used by some manufactures!

RACNRAY
By the way, just which iridium plugs do you recommend for the 111 ?
 
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The o p has them pictured in the first post on this thread
 
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I haven’t yet changed the plugs on my Indian. But I will say that they worked great in my Yamaha engines. In particular the 11,000 rpm engines in my Yamaha jet boat. The first time out even my wife commented that engines seemed to be running smoother.
 
I can see a point with longevity, but a spark is a spark.

What does a set of plugs cost - the basic bike ones, I mean... is the extended life if the platinum/iridium ones worth the extra cost (and I know they are rather expensive (depends where you are, of course).

The other thing to think of is similar to how i think of vacuum cleaners (lol, whut?):

Basic Goblin 2200W = £50
All singing dyson-o-air-ram-thingy = £299

If the Goblin lasts a year or two but the dyson lasts 5-8... then every 2 years I get a BRAND NEW vacuum cleaner while the dyson just gets older.
After 8 years I've had 4 new cleaners for £200 total (not inc price rises) while the dyson is still 8 years old!

Same with plugs - if a set of plugs last a year or two for £20 and iridiums last 6 years for £80... not worth it, false economy. And you get clean shiny new spark plugs while the super-plugs just get older and gunkier.

============================

Edit, just did some price checking. UK

Std NGK = £15 for two

Iridum = £45 for four (so basically the same, just a tiny bit more ££) = worth having maybe.

Plasma core = £16 for ONE = it's have to be a shitload better to justify that price tag.

Still... wherever you go people will extol the virtues of platinum or iridium or plasma core over bog standard.
They might be right, "bigger spark"?, cleaner burns, smoother running, longer life, etc.
Or it might just be wishful thinking fulfilled?

I guess the only real way to know is to throw down your ££$$ for what it, to be honest, not a dear item for a motorbike... and try it out for yourself.
 
Not ignorance. Just the collective zeitgeist of its members. Some I tend to believe more than others. RACNRAY has been a wealth of info on a wide range of ideas, but I have not followed through with any of his findings. Me, I like my stock bike; quiet and fuel efficient. But I would like to squeak a bit more power out of her. I was thinking maybe a PVCX and a stage 2 cam for a unique signature. I know, I can get more power by installing less restrictive items but I said I like it quiet. And I know it can be done because after reading these pages for 3 years almost everything has been tried.
 
Not ignorance. Just the collective zeitgeist of its members. Some I tend to believe more than others. RACNRAY has been a wealth of info on a wide range of ideas, but I have not followed through with any of his findings. Me, I like my stock bike; quiet and fuel efficient. But I would like to squeak a bit more power out of her. I was thinking maybe a PVCX and a stage 2 cam for a unique signature. I know, I can get more power by installing less restrictive items but I said I like it quiet. And I know it can be done because after reading these pages for 3 years almost everything has been tried.
I agree. RACNRAY has been around the block a few times. I've read his writings on this plus another site that I frequent and I have much respect for his research and opinions. Wouldn't know the guy if I tripped over him but spend enough time on interweb sites and you're able to separate the real deals from the empty barrels. There's RRay plus a very few others.
 
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Not ignorance. Just the collective zeitgeist of its members. Some I tend to believe more than others. RACNRAY has been a wealth of info on a wide range of ideas, but I have not followed through with any of his findings. Me, I like my stock bike; quiet and fuel efficient. But I would like to squeak a bit more power out of her. I was thinking maybe a PVCX and a stage 2 cam for a unique signature. I know, I can get more power by installing less restrictive items but I said I like it quiet. And I know it can be done because after reading these pages for 3 years almost everything has been tried.
I agree. RACNRAY has been around the block a few times. I've read his writings on this plus another site that I frequent and I have much respect for his research and opinions. Wouldn't know the guy if I tripped over him but spend enough time on interweb sites and you're able to separate the real deals from the empty barrels. There's RRay plus a very few others.
WOW...THANX GUYS...I am humbled. Truth is there is NOTHING wrong with the stock plugs in our TS111's, they do their basic job just fine.

BUT...just as so many other things in life, there are options that in one or many ways offer advantages and improvements over the existing component. Different mufflers for better sound and performance, different intakes for better performance, synthetic oil vs mineral, etc.

The mistake I see being made here is the close-mindedness and ignorance among other not so desirable traits, to slam a product that has proven itself. I laff at those that warn about gapping iridiums due to the chance of breaking the tip. What kinda ham fisted method is being used? I have sold, gapped and installed THOUSANDS of iridiums since 2004 and using the PROPER gapping tool it is purty much impossible to break the tip. The iridium tip is only part of the equation, the ground electrode design is quite different from a std plug and is actually more important than the center electrode. The affect of this combination is likened to starting a fire with a torch vs starting a fire with a lighter as with the stock plugs, that initial start of combustion allows for a more complete burn in the limited amount of time during the combustion cycle b4 the exhaust valve(s) open.

The ONLY way I can justify or quantify anything is with experience. My experience is based on trial and error, dyno results and real world observations. Facts I present, not opinion.

RACNRAY
 
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